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P.I.System/ english translations/ Diet and Life, chapter 1

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Reinhold Schweikert,   email: paradiesinselfamilie@gmail.com

The Paradise Island System/ Diet and Life/ Part 2

Life Plants in the Paradise Garden

Description, establishment and care of the plant and animal community in and from which we live.

P a r a d i s e I s l a n d S y s t e m

D i e t a n d L i f e

2

Chapter 1: Life plants in the paradise garden

Description, establishment and care of the plant and animal community in and from which we live.

Topics:

Treatment and care of our life plants

Establishing paradise garden systems

Choice of plants, requirements, location, planting, care, use

Chapter 2: The self-sufficient farm on two hectares

Topics:

How to change flower gardens into nursery gardens

Sowing times for autumn and winter vegetables

Eating and drinking in summer

Notes:

No guarantee is given nor liability assumed for any applications of the knowledge found in my works.

Anyone who passes on my works assumes full responsibility.

It is not the author’s intention to harm, compromise or offend others by spreading his personal “truths” but to help and show new ways.

The reader should not make any links between what is described and living persons or groups.

Any comparisons and examples, even negative ones, serve as illustrations and are to be understood as a literary tool for conveying information in a lively and interesting way.

The author does not want to improve people, merely (their) behaviour, actions, relationships, connections, ideologies, spiritual principles .…, which he has found to be bad, incorrect, harmful .…, by drawing attention to the errors causing these and pointing out alternatives.

Author: Reinhold Schweikert

Ap. 111, P-7320-999 Castelo de Vide

Tel: 00351 245 992419

Typesetting and layout: Detlev Zaiser

Drawings from the author’s sketches: Thomas Jahn

P.I. System/ Diet and Life/ Volume 2

R. Schweikert, Ap. 111 P-7320-999 C. de Vide

Table of Contents:

Life Plants in the Paradise Garden

Introduction

Chapter 1

At the beginning

Don’t destroy any kind of plant – The usefulness of the thorn apple:

The amount of poison varies considerably in one and the same plant.

Poisonous plants often serve as food for animals

Other pioneering plants in dry soil

Fruit trees in hot regions – Use of climbing plants

Apple and quince hedges for climbing plants – Suggestion for a chicken orchard

Single trees for improving the fruit orchard or using it as animal grazing

Rule: when goats break out – Our goats’ late summer menu

Old tree trunks for climbing plants, as a protection against frost. Growing from cuttings

Propagation with T-cuttings

Drawing of T-cutting – Protection of species – Arrogance of officials who are slaves to big

corporations

Other trees as supports

Cherry trees – Rule: we don’t fight either insects or fungi

Almost all trees and hedges can be used for climbing plants

Arcades as supports for climbing plants/ living houses

Old picture of a natural house

(from K. Kirsch “Natural buildings from living trees”)

Establishing life gardens:

Neither Fukuoka’s “do nothing” agriculture nor

Mollison’s permaculture are good models!

We are to be measured by the yields from conventional mechanized farming

Different degrees and forms of integration

The obstacle of extreme civilisation

The P.I. System is suitable for any region

Differences between warm and cold countries

Why we don’t want to settle in Germany (at present)

Godlessness leads to lawlessness, chaos and unnaturalness

What can we call a social system, a government and power

constellation which …? – My suggestion

Possibilities of establishing P.I. System islands:

Reservations about gardening books

Feathery-legged bantams – Normal chickens – Guinea fowls – Ducks

Choose domestic animals carefully! No predators on the island!

Choosing plant species:

Chance seedlings can often provide good species

Caution with imported vegetable seeds!

Apples

Kinds tried sucessfully in Portugal and kinds known in Germany

Pruning apple trees

Our gardens are to be regarded as works of art – Questions about the tree

Bush or tree? – Basic recipe for sealing the trunk – Developing the treetop

Location – What can we do about mice? – Using apples

Apricots, pears – Use

Oaks – Holm oaks – Cork trees

Sketch: Numerous uses of cork bark

Cork trees are officially protected in Portugal – Numerous uses of oaks

(Bohemian) truffles – Boletus – Lepiota – Russula

Mushroom science – German oaks – Sketch: wood fire indoors Acorns, use of

Strawberries – Figs

Pruning, peculiarities

(Bread) cereals

Boundary fencing for cereal fields

Beware, hedges/arcades can easily grow out of control

Broom – Hazelnut – Raspberries

Currants, jostaberries and gooseberries – Kaki fruits – Cacti

Cherries – Sweet corn – Almond – Mulberries

Melons and pumpkins – Olives

Olive gardens as habitats for domestic animals – Care of olive trees

Ban on life!

Peaches and plums

Fungi

Let’s take a closer look at this “poison”

Quince – Roses

Some problems with constructing houses from trees

Roses again – Tomatoes

Jerusalem artichoke – My tip

Walnut

Grapevines

Citrus fruits

Chapter 2

Plan for establishing a self-sufficient farm on two hectares of land in southern or central Europe

Corridors or allotments separated by fruit hedges

Establishing woods of fruit trees

Vegetables in fruit woods?

Some possibilities for growing plants in corridors in fruit woods

Gardening in the wood. Sun-hungry vegetables

Not all trees are suitable for a fruit wood

Caution with huge trees

Autonomy guaranteed!

We have no space to spare!

Trees at risk from fire

The fruit hedges

A: Double quince hedge with berries

B: Jostaberry hedges

C:Roses and apples

D:Mixed hedges

E: Hedges from a single species of fruit

Stronger and weaker kinds

Keeping poultry in the corridors

Keeping out preying animals and fire

Composting/using accumulated plant material

How many chickens can find food?

Income from the P.I. System farms

Where and how to market produce?

About the farm buildings

Dwelling house and other functions

Protected core area of our plant castle

Paradises for animals, people and plants

Some wisdom for ecological practice that shouldn’t be forgotten

What is to be done with the many flower gardens?

A: Flower gardens with trees

B: Wild areas planted with grass, shrubs and bushes

C: Transforming woods into fruit woods

D: Other areas, greenery along roads, public parks

E: Fruit in pots / Possibilities in densely populated areas

Pots and containers for planting trees

-..Revoke wrong laws!

Sowing times for autumn and winter vegetables in Portugal

Eating and drinking in summer

Our summer midday meal

Fermented vegetables

Basic knowledge for ecological practice: fermented produce

Eating and drinking in autumn

Chapter 3

P.I. System/ Settlement projects

Assessing the suitability of land for settlement

1.) Travel to the location

2.) Entry conditions

3.) Residence

4.) About the legal situation in the target country

5.) Crime, security, social affairs

6.) Establishing the P.I. System, money matters

7.) Surroundings, environment

8.) Site

9.) Buildings, necessary investments

10.) Other points

11.) When the land is transferred to the user by the owner

Example of a model contract

P.I.System / Application

– Personal details, aptitudes and inclinations

– Character outline, health impairments

– Commitments and liabilities, funds and resources

– Family, ancestors and relatives/friends, training

– Previously acquired knowledge, exclusion of liability

List of photos:

Photo: Farm cart with ancient mule

Photo: R.S. with his youngest children

Photo: Main meal of raw food

Photo: Sitting hen with chick, Elias with guinea fowl

Photo: Simple stick construction

Photos: Young feathery-legged bantams and cocks

Photos: Boletus, puffball

Photos: My daughters are enthusiastic mushroom pickers

Photos: Related types of mushrooms

Photos: Boletus types, large lepiota

Photo: Cucumbers like to climb on trees, protected in the moist and shady summer fruit wood.

Photo: Well-dunged mimosas are fast-growing trees with shallow roots and after a few years they

will be taller than all your fruit trees. They can get along with the latter but not with vegetable

growing. These trees provide the first pollen for the bees with us here in Portugal and good

protection from frost and sun, which is why we grow trees in pots under them.

Photo: The plums from our trees laden to breaking point find takers not only among our farm

residents.

Photo: Our system of filled walls made of broad twig racks would be suitable for airy side walls or

large feeding racks.

Introduction:

In our life garden one Monday in mid-September in 2002: I just want to eat a few grapes, but stop at the black figs and eat some of them with strawberries. I’ve really eaten enough but I still go on past the black and yellow grapes to pick up a few apples from the ground. Here we find the kinds Delicious, Brave Esmolfe, a wild Portuguese apple, and other sweet, red native apples that I don’t know the name of. Further back, our Swabian Gravensteiner and Gewürzluiken apples embellish the old trees which used to bear worthless fruit, on to which I grafted branches from Germany. Then I eat some rucola before going back with the best apples. I walk along the path between the garden and the animals’ grazing area and the goats, which have already eaten their fill and are rather tired, eye me in the hope that I might drop a titbit into their feeding rack. In front of the house I discover my forgotten bucket half full of cactus figs picked in the morning when I cut some cactus leaves for the goats. Now it no longer surprises me that I’m so full that I can’t eat anything else. My first meal consisted of half a bucket of cactus figs, several glasses of soured milk and a few tomatoes. At the moment we have such quantities of ripe tomatoes that we don’t know what to do with them. Should we dry them? – At the moment it’s too wet. Should we preserve them by fermenting them with salt? -It isn’t so easy to ferment tomatoes on their own, as it often results in extremely high pressure and they explode, leaving the pulp on the ceiling. Also preserved tomatoes on their own are too watery. I could pick a few lepiota or boletus edulis, which are just beginning to grow, add a few onions, of which we have had a plentiful crop this year, then thicken and enrich the mixture with sufficient cereal or lentils, but I abandon the idea for the moment. One reason is that pickling with salt no longer works so well since we have been bombarded with microwaves from a transmitter in Marvao.

The idyll described above is thus somewhat deceptive. Since the beginning of the microwave bombardment the abundance and quality of the fruit, good vegetables, healthy animals and plentiful milk and honey have become subject to restrictions, i.e. they are only possible if the whole system is looked after in an optimal way with the best care, feeding of the animals and dunging of the soil. The milk supplied by our neighbour has become thin and watery so that we can scarcely make cheese. It is apparent that a large part of the life energy of plants, animals and humans is being used up by the bombardment with electromagnetic radiation from mobile phones or their transmitters. All the computer data are also being transmitted round the world in the steadily growing “great internet” – to the detriment of every living creature. In reality we are at war, although nobody is going to the front to fight! – And today some questions are going through my head again. – Is it possible that all those people near and far don’t realize or even notice that they are slowly killing themselves and everything around them with their mobile phones? Here we hear and feel an all-destructive, ultra-high humming sound, which increases at the weekend, especially when the atmosphere is thin and dry, and is at its loudest when there are parties nearby! Doesn’t anybody protest about it? It is in fact the worst kind of sound, a deadly background noise in the long term that puts a strain on our organisms day and night.- In other cases everyone reports the slightest noise to the police! – And now this constant high-frequency noise is destroying and disrupting the peace and quiet of nature on almost the whole of our planet! – It can’t be proved?! It can easily be proved, even if you have no ears and senses for it! You just need a receiver that can modulate the high frequencies down a few octaves to make this horrible noise that is constantly being fired through our ether audible!

– Because of their permanent state of toxication from manifold sources and numbing of their senses / insensitivity, the city dwellers probably don’t notice this trifle that is the last straw – at least for us and nature. The “civvies” will soon be dying at 40, they are already sick and wretched from the cradle, can no longer conceive healthy children, can’t stand the sun and being outdoors any longer… They probably blame the sun, the notorious hole in the ozone layer, the cosmos ….

Or could it be that the whole thing is actually a deliberate destruction scenario, a perfect crime of genocide by certain men who believe they should decimate or destroy the white race in particular, especially the German nation? – The most recent wars waged by the Americans do in fact clearly prove the danger of this electromagnetic radiation. American soldiers hardly ever die during their war service. They die afterwards at home from the effects of electromagnetic radiation rather than from nuclear radiation. The “civvies” only see what the media-makers allow them to see. – And it is always possible to find other causes.

It is these very media, which themselves work with radio technology, that are the principal means of manipulating the masses like marionettes. They just won’t let anyone take away their toys that easily. On the contrary, it is to be feared that anyone trying to escape the influence of the media will be persecuted and destroyed in one way or another. (Psychiatrically, in a commercial or financial way, socially as a citizen ….)

However, radio technology is by no means the only thing impairing our health and mental development. When electricity was introduced a century ago, Rudolf Steiner complained that it was no longer possible to live as a real human being because electricity disrupted the essential requirement for this, namely the harmony and peace of our nature. The disruption of these areas of natural tranquillity and peace has been going on for a long time, but in an especially serious way only since the introduction of all kinds of radiation technology, finally through the installation of satellites and now in an even more threatening way because of the growing stream of computer data transmission and especially due to mobile phones. We know that the radar stations alone have destroyed whole forests in the mountains on both sides of our national borders. Now the whole of nature, all plants and living creatures, above all human beings are being affected, because the computerised mobile phone idiots unfortunately don’t know of anything better to do than to telephone and radio data over longer and longer distances. Some of them apparently want to save the world in this way. But others actually want nothing but power, money and world rule! – If it continues, all the effort won’t be worth it anymore. There is no rescuer or winner on a junk planet where nobody can live as a human being.

But who can stop these destructive energies? Who still has the strength to change or stop anything? – Life as a “civvy” turns everyone into a weak character full of addictions! Of course the whole of a human being suffers because of the bombardment with microwaves, that means their psyche, intelligence, creativity, genius, musicality. Deficiencies in this respect are evident everywhere. But which of these consumption zombies, which have been abandoned by all good spirits, is still able to recognise them?!

Short break

The children are coming back. They have been taking the mare, the mule and the donkey to a distant meadow and are now riding back from the garden to our farm in a cart drawn by Bonec, the old mule. – Loaded with greenery for the goats, apples, tomatoes and melons. I try one of the latter. We can get land everywhere here, because nobody has time, interest and, above all, the strength to cultivate it. A lot has changed during the ten years we’ve been here. The Portuguese take all “progress” on board enthusiastically. Sometimes it seems to me that they are competing to see who can degenerate the fastest. Machinery, poisonous chemicals and all technological means are used mercilessly and without any opposing voices under the motto “The main thing is I can drive an excavator.” The old generation only live from their gardens in rare cases. There is now a “social service” that brings meals on wheels and carries old people away to hospital, when they get ill from the food. Almost all of them take medicine and can then no longer work and live naturally. Animals are also stuffed with poison and given countless vaccinations. Never mind if one of them sometimes dies from it. Fresh air and an outdoor or partly outdoor life are to be avoided. Thanks to progress, all the houses here are now well insulated and modernised and smell of detergent, perfume and cooking, as in the rest of Europe. To avoid getting too much fresh air out of doors, people like making fires and then stand in the smoke of the fire which smells of plastic. Or they spray toxic chemicals, kill off green plants growing by the roadside or use an electric scythe to cut down any plants still growing in spite of fire and drought. The fields are cultivated as often as possible with EU subsidies so that they look “tidy” to match the clean, new consumer world.

Daughter Eva, sons Emanuel and Elias on the farm cart with our ancient mule

Actually I shouldn’t be surprised at such things any more. We know these insane neuroses about cleanliness, order and hygiene all too well from our old home, where they assumed such drastic proportions that the neurotic hygienists were in fact able to take control of the country and finally set about stifling nature and life in the bud.

These and many other civilisatory kinds of decadence through acts counter to nature ending in self-poisoning and destruction have now spread their toxic metastases all over the world. Who am I in fact writing my “Diet and Life, Volume 2” for? Why don’t I abandon my obviously hopeless attempt to try and show humankind another way? Why do I still believe that somewhere in this world there are people living who will hear about my plans and want/ be able to implement them?

Building up a Paradise Garden System isn’t witchcraft. It “only” requires a few people with hearts and understanding who stay on their land, live off it, work there every day, don’t have to or want to leave it, have heads free of junk, illusions and the false worlds in/from the media and computers, who build family communities again, simply strive unselfishly and without stars’ airs and graces every day, that means they plant their gardens, clean out their stables, cut animal feed, mow and make hay …. are simply there for everyone and everything. Of course the wrong modern methods of bringing up children, the schools, the poisonous food … have turned our nation into a mass of incapable people, who aren’t even aware of their deficits in every respect but sun themselves in the conceit of their own insight and greatness. The modern consumer citizens can no longer bear any truth and austerity, they let themselves be stupefied by the unctuous esoteric utterances of oriental gurus and despite their peaceful façades remain locked in their own limitless egoism and megalomania. A return to nature would reveal their mimosa-like mental and physical weakness and fragility, which are the result of a life contrary to nature and divine order over generations. And this very inability to return to a natural life and diet creates problems for the dynamic modern-world person, accustomed to success and geared to a career, who, in our view, is no more than a poor marionette. These types of people won’t come down from their thrones and thus make their inability to gain insight and adopt a natural way of life and diet irreversible. But God is grinding his mills …, and anyone who does not conform will have to accept or die.

Here in Europe it seems to be getting darker more and more rapidly. The damaging effects of the decadent technotic society are so extreme even in its remotest corners that it is hardly possible to contemplate establishing new paradises any longer, because all the pre-requisites and above all people with a sound awareness are simply lacking. There can be no more paradise people under these conditions, just as there can be no trout in a totally polluted stream. Even our already established P.I. System farm here can only be maintained with a great effort. It is scarcely possible to lead a really regenerative life any more, for we are all bombarded daily by a hail of microwaves, noise, toxic gas (bad air)…

Therefore I would like to suggest that our people, or more exactly those who want to live and eat naturally, ask for new land. After the Second World War the Jews occupied Jordan even against the wishes of the indigenous population. They had also been offered Madagascar at that time. – We would certainly not refuse Madagascar! But I hardly believe that we would need so much land because there will most likely only be a few people who want to or are able to go our way. We don’t want to occupy anyone’s land but would be content with free, unoccupied or abandoned areas of land. And in any case it doesn’t have to be a single piece of land for a closed nation – which is vehemently opposed by certain people in the case of the Germans – but we would be satisfied with “islands” in every country of the world where a natural way of life and diet are still possible. That would be everywhere as far away as possible from civilisation, where there are no transmitters and where it isn’t too cold.

In this work the reader can learn how we want to settle on and develop such land.

In writing “Diet and Life” I have therefore not primarily thought of the climatic conditions in old Germany but have presupposed a somewhat warmer climate. But it is also possible for cold countries to use the knowledge and methods from this work, simply by replacing plants that don’t flourish by others that do. Of course, it was also much easier for me to describe the ecological or paradiasical system of plants, animals and humans that I have built up in Portugal than some other fictitious system for an area where I was not living (anymore).

Diet and Life 2 is thus in principle designed for settlers. In case we or some other people are able or have to begin again in this or another world. Besides practical details and plans for building up self-sufficient farms and using the food from them, the book also contains further important information about inheritance laws, eugenics and morality. The breeding of animals and humans is subject to certain natural laws, which we can no longer ignore if we want to survive. Although, unlike in the first part, the plants used, namely all useful trees and bushes, shrubs, vegetables and grasses, are in the foreground, reference is often made to domestic animals again. For P.I.System settlers it is essential to know what plants harmonise with what kinds of animals, because we also use them as “gardening assistants” in all our gardens. We can’t achieve a population density of (considerably) more than 100 people per square kilometre unless our facilities are optimally organised for humans, animals and plants and well developed. Furthermore, it is necessary to learn and master the use, processing and storage of all the components produced with suitable utensils and methods.

My youngest daughters Josefina, Julia and Joana and me. Since 1991 I have been living on a smallholding in Alto Alentejo, Portugal with my in the meantime seven own children, my common-law wife and three other adult assistants. Only there was it first possible for us to fully elaborate, try out and document the concepts for our new way of natural living and eating on and from our own land, which are presented to you in this work.

However, in this work it is not my wish to urge all my readers to emigrate – it is probably already too late for this anyway -, but to encourage everyone to remedy the grievous state of affairs on the spot in their fatherland, to remove obstacles with all means available, to fight everywhere for a new, intact natural world in which we can live freely again together with all our children and animals.

Break

In the meantime it is late afternoon. The plentiful midday meal, which I prefer to describe in another part of this work, has been digested. While eating our dessert, we listened to part of Haydn’s “Creation”. While listening, I thought again about the insane evolution and “big bang” theories which are disseminated in “civilised” society. It’s astounding what dumb, uprooted and godless people can now be led to believe! – But the old values from our homeland are more important for us than ever. And as long as we still have solar energy we would like to record its cultural heritage as extensively as possible. Music means a lot to us and contributes a great deal to what we call refinement of the heart. – We also decided to have the partitur of “The Creation” copied so that we can all read it and sing or play along again while we listen as we did with the last opera, Mozart’s Magic Flute. – Work will shortly resume in the garden, where I talk to my youngest son about all the places where he can plant salad plants, especially endives and sugar loaf for the winter. I would have liked to help him fetch the fertilizer for his salad beds but after enjoying some black Portuguese grapes I decided to go on writing so as to make it easier for my readers to recognise and comprehend what we have built up here. I believe that nobody in “civilised” society can imagine any more what simple luxury, what true quality of life there can be on such a Paradise Island, when all the people, animals and plants living there work together, helping and complementing each other, and you can just forget the rest of the world. There is absolutely no comparison any more today between the quality of our products and commercial ones. Here the rich content of all substances in the fruit and vegetables provides satisfying nourishment on account of the optimal fertilisation of the soil. And it is almost impossible to describe what is created from all the crops for the main meal with skilful natural preparation and combination. It is pure pleasure every day, food from God, our Lord Jesus Christ, described in the word as HIS FLESH and HIS BLOOD. HE, whose energy of life and order radiates throughout the universe, permits everything to grow and flourish through, from and in accordance with HIS Holy Ghost and in HIS image. And those who naturally consume the fruit and vegetables and all seed-bearing herbs, milk and honey .… from HIS creation, take in whole cell building blocks, receive HIM, HIS goodness and truth, communicate with HIM and become HIS children and part of HIS heaven.

Break

I needed to walk round our smallholding to check everythng: what is missing, who needs something? – Work is going on everywhere. Apple juice is being made downstairs. My daughter Eva is extracting honey from combs. My sons are reading or joking with my little daughters. There is a pedagogical secret behind a P.I.System farm: everything of importance can be done and learnt there, when it is properly built up and managed. In other words, there is nothing meaningless or useless to do there.

– Quite unlike the occupations nowadays in towns. Those who manage to keep their children away from the soul- and life-destroying institutions in towns and bring them up on a Paradise Island will be able to experience how they develop into mature and capable personalities with genuine knowledge and abilities far exceeding those of any town-dweller. – Which, if we consider it more closely, is, of course, no art, as the knowledge acquired in towns has nothing to do with life, it is theoretical, hollow, falsified, unreal, unnecessary… actually only intended to fetter people, to suppress, brainwash, mislead and lie to them, to make them into idiots and babblers, confused and insane ….., the more they “study” it.

I hope you have understood what I wanted to say in this long introduction.

Sitting hen with chick Elias with guinea fowl (Frak)

P.I. System Diet and Life/ Volume 2/ Chapter 1

Life plants in the Paradise Garden

Author:

Reinhold Schweikert, Ap. 111, P-7320-999 Castelo de Vide

Additional recommmended literature by the author:

Natural Farming in Portugal, P.I. System/Short articles, volume 4/Ecological practice,

Diet and Life Part 1

Other: A. Wiechula in K. Hirsch “Natural buildings from living wood”

In the beginning

was the word, the idea, the plan. For you, too, the development of your land will become a creative act, a work of art which you will work on lifelong. Within the scope of this book I can only describe a few of the countless possibilities to make your beginning easier, perhaps to help you avoid some mistakes you might otherwise have made. At any rate it is your garden, your animals and plants that you will live with and from. You will get to know them better and appreciate them more every year. Many that you thought were useless will suddenly become useful to you. Thus, the first basic rule is:

Don’t destroy any kind of plant!

When I consider our land today, I realise in retrospect that I wouldn’t want to do without any species of plant growing there. They have all become useful at some time or another. (The only thing that still puzzles us is the use of a few ornamental plants that we once got from the town, where there were cultivated by the housewives living there.) Our gardens will only become biotopes that support and maintain people and animals when we concentrate all useful species there and arrange them in the most sensible way.

There used to be questions such as: “What do you do with the poisonous thorn apple?” – Well, we really don’t need it for what it is known for, i.e. its thorns. We aren’t interested in its alkaloids. And we don’t smoke it “against” asthma or make “flying ointments” as the witches did in the Middle Ages. – But if a plant is obviously thriving on your plot of land and doesn’t want to be done away with , then you should try and find out how it can be useful.

The usefulness of the thorn apple:

First of all we observed a certain very large type of bee which fed almost exclusively on the blossom of the thorn apple. We also found privet hawk moth caterpillars on it. Then the children started to enjoy its blossom. Its flowers contain a lot of nectar which you can suck out as with dead nettles. Then we found out that fresh, pressed thorn apple leaves stop bleeding immediately, when they are wrapped round a wound. Out of interest we harvested a few kilos of seed from its seed capsules and pressed them. And behold, the seeds yielded a considerable quantity of oil which is hardly poisonous at all, after the toxic substances have sunk to the bottom, and can be used externally or for medicinal purposes. The oil also stops bleeding. But some uses of a plant are often quite banal. For example, we often use plant leaves as toilet paper. Isn’t it possible that the ability of the thorn apple leaves to stop bleeding can also be appreciated in this usage?

The amount of poison varies considerably in one and the same plant.

I got a shock when I read about this plant later in books. Only warnings about its poisonous qualities! But at any rate at least one source said that the amount of poison can vary according to the location. In this connection we observed that toxic locations favour poisonous plants. When we buy hay from a contaminated environment and let it rot, the first things that grows there are poisonous toadstools and scarcely any edible fungi. Thus, we need not be surprised at the poison in thorn apples picked from rubbish dumps. – The fact that the thorn apple is most poisonous when fertilized with human faeces is certainly only the case when the faeces are from eaters of poison or meat and cooked food. At any rate, the thorn apple isn’t very toxic with us and the goats even eat it as up to a quarter of their food intake. It is a fact that it is easy to pick large quantities of thorn apples in places where it thrives. You cut bunches of ripe seed capsules and beat out the seeds in a vat. This shrub was never disagreeable even in the garden. It doesn’t take up any room on the ground and provides shade for plants that don’t like heat from a height of about 1m. When it is no longer needed, it can easily be removed and doesn’t start growing again.

I think that in general there is still a lot of ignorance regarding the toxic nature of certain plants. After all, the leaves of tomatoes, potatoes and even cucumbers are poisonous and with lots of fruits you have to wait until they are completely ripe before you can eat them. Some seeds need frost or long periods of time before they are free of poison or can be readily digested. Mightn’t be possible that we don’t yet know the “instructions for use” of some plants? Naturally there are plants which are more or less tame or wild but they are all useful if we know what for! – Over the past few years I have realised more and more that such a garden system is a living organism directed by higher intelligence and finest feeling, capable of gearing itself exactly to nature-loving people and their requirements. An example of this is the fact that the different fruits ripen exactly one after another without any gaps.

Poisonous plants often serve as food for animals

When considering the usefulness of plants, an important point is always, of course, the question as to whether domestic animals can use them and if so, which animals. – So far the goats are the only animals that use the thorn apple. They especially like to eat it at certain times or in certain places when or where it is less poisonous, when its seed capsules are still green. Therefore for this one shrub we actually already have grounds enough to keep it. But it is the thorn apple’s resistance to drought and heat that can make it even more valuable as a pioneer plant. We are very dependent on the few plants that can stand the heat in the hot months. I suspect that the thorn apple loses its poison during the hot period. On the other hand, what animals or even humans eat in times of need is quite different from what they eat in times of plenty. In times of emergency any plant is edible in a limited quantity!

Other pioneering plants in dry soil

But fortunately there is something better than the thorn apple in dry periods. The hardiest pioneering plants in our hot region are various types of broom, opuntia (cacti), cork trees and holm oaks as well as some herbs such as lavender, rosemary, oregano, small types of mint and a large number of grasses. Goats, sheep and donkeys can anyway survive with this group of plant pioneers.

A large number of our popular vegetables and fruits have almost as much endurance when the soil is fertilized and enriched in conjunction with some methods that I will describe in the course of this book. True, they depend on our loving gardener’s hand, but with some care they will accompany us into the most extreme regions.

It is astounding how many types of fruits and vegetables will even produce a yield without any water in the dry summer, provided you have sorts adapted to this climate. It’s even possible that almost all wild grasses and shrubs except the most resistant such as goosefoot, foxtail and erigeron x hybridus dry up but water melons, winter tomatoes, black and white beans, sweet corn, Jerusalem artichokes, potatoes and even certain types of pumpkins still grow and produce fruit. In some cases (not always!) certain combinations of plants can increase endurance. Thus, for example, the beans mentioned above cover the ground on which sweet corn is still thriving or pumpkin tendrils survive in the shade of the beans.

Fruit trees in hot regions

Among fruit-bearing plants blackberries are able pioneers and resistant to drought and likewise grapevines, when they have deep roots. Apple trees are also among the most enduring on some types of soil, but may initially have difficulty in keeping their fruit over the summer or the apples get burn marks where the sun shines directly on them. I assumed that light-coloured varieties are preferred here in Portugal because they are better able to stand the sun. But we also have a red sort that stands alone and doesn’t even have very thick foliage but still can withstand the sun. I assume that the reason for the heat-resistance of this variety is its high sugar content and the fact that it ripens very early in the summer. In any case, it is harsh sunlight rather than drought that causes apple trees problems in a hot climate. To make it possible to cultivate this very valuable fruit in warm regions as well, we have, in addition to the usual methods such as artificial shade, pruning into a thick roof-like shape and choice of suitable varieties, developed another method which I will describe briefly and which is also in principle worth considering for other kinds of fruit trees in all hot, sunny regions:

Use of climbing plants:

This method must, however, be used very sensitively with each tree “personally”. There are – especially young – trees with sparse branches and (still) lacking in stability that can hardly bear climbing plants and themselves need to be supported, especially while their fruit is ripening. Such trees can be made more stable by cutting them back regularly over a number of years until the trunk is strong enough. You can also support small “shaky” trees from the start with espaliers or pergolas. Building supports for climbing plants involves a considerable amount of time and money, especially for large structures. It isn’t possible to obtain wood free of charge everywhere. And if you don’t want your supports to collapse in a few years under the weight of the fruit or during a storm, you must use cement posts, galvanised wire, impregnated stakes ….. for building pergolas and other supports, i.e. expensive and unnatural things from a shop.

Of course, you are welcome to profit the building trade and build your “perfect” cemented pergolas. But I would also like to describe other, (more) natural possibilities here. That is the reason that I pay especial attention to the subject of climbing plants and fruit tree hedges. The latter is also nothing more than a living support for various climbing plants with different requirements. All the trees are more stable and protected when in a hedge. Thus we can plant or sow our small wobbly apple trees close together in a row and then use the apple hedge for other climbing plants. Such closely planted hedges of apple trees with short trunks were invented several centuries ago and were often used as a substitute for plantations of tall trees. It hasn’t occurred to the new generation of poison-spraying fruit farmers to use fruit trees additionally for climbing plants and to leave enough space between them for chickens to scratch during the gardening season. In the quince hedges

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Suggestion: Create chicken orchards by planting dense rows of medium-sized fruit trees. Fill up the lower part of the rows with berry bushes (currants or gooseberries). Set quince hedges for low-climbing vegetables between the rows of tall trees, as described, or plant more berries between them so that there is just a small path on all sides. You can fill up the spaces between quince hedges planted about 2m apart with exuberantly growing raspberry canes. Jerusalem artichokes, sweet corn and potatoes can be planted in or between the rows of trees wherever and as long as there is space for them. Chickens love our fruit orchards and find most of their food there. They only scratch where the soil is heaped up. They only eat and scratch up sweet corn in its initial stages. There are even some kinds of lettuce which chickens don’t like and which can grow if not planted too close together. However, it isn’t possible to have seed beds or young cabbages, carrots and onions when hens are around.

Such closely planted fruit “woods” inhabited by chickens can best be fertilised – also for chicken food – with blankets of mulch from any available plant remains. In addition, in such chicken orchards you can also spread out any kitchen waste and, of course, human and animal manure to be checked later for any remaining usefulness or spread it directly in fertiliser trenches for seeds to be sown later.

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you can plant at intervals other related species such as pears and medlars, which can also be combined with the quince or grafted on to it (see also P.I. System/Ecological practice/Tree planting).

Single trees for improving the fruit wood or using it as animal grazing

But let’s leave our fruit hedges and go on to the “normal” orchard with single trees: with such orchards you should consider in principle if they are to be upgraded into fruit forests or adapted for – at least temporary – animal grazing. Initially the amount of fruit wood will always be small and the grazing area large on our farms. Over the years the grazing area will become smaller and smaller and the amount of foliage feed from the growing fruit trees will steadily increase, so that more dairy animals, especially goats, can be fed with it each year. When optimally fed, goats do not require or desire such a large space all the time. They like it best when they are kept in a safe, dry and sheltered place as near to humans as possible and provided with a convenient supply of food. It isn’t easy to protect trees from

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Rule: When goats break out, it isn’t a sign of their “wickedness”, but is due to an insufficient supply of food. Animals which are well fed with the whole range of plants on our farm don’t want to escape and don’t have to be hobbled. (Hobbling is a method of preventing animals from nibbling, climbing into and treading down trees or jumping over fences by tying two of their legs together in turn with a 20-40cm-long rope above the hoof joint. Broad bands of material should be wound round their joints to prevent the rope from rubbing them sore.)

Our goats’ late summer menu

Early in the morning in their shed: a mixture of oats, barley and maize.

During the day outdoors: leaves cut from peach and apple trees, oaks, olive trees, grapevines,

roses, blackberries …. brassica oleracea leaves, various freshly cut weeds and shrubs, maize

stalks, reject apples and pears, melon skins.

In the evening in their shed: sliced cactus leaves (potatoes, turnips, Jerusalem artichokes are

also possible), and oats, barley and maize again.

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Photo above: young feathery-legged bantams

Below: fully-grown feathery-legged bantam cocks also act as alarm clocks

all species of unhobbled animals, but you can take precautions. If there aren’t too many trees, it’s better to build the necessary protective fences and devices for the duration of the grazing period or as permanent installations. After all, the animals save us from having to spread manure and also, to a certain extent, from having to cut back the lowest branches or cut the grass and provide us with milk in addition. Incidentally, herds of hoofed animals also drive voles away. Every time you create a new orchard you should therefore plan carefully with the grazing animals in mind so that it is possible to let them into as many sections of the orchard as possible periodically.

Old tree trunks for climbing plants, as a protection against frost. Growing from cuttings

To return finally to the main subject – in a traditional orchard with individual trees we always find some stable apple trees that almost never make full use of their fruit-bearing capacity in autumn or even a considerable number of ancient trees with often worthless fruit. These can be used as supports for dense climbing plants, if possible vines, which will later be reasonably safe from the grazing animals when they have reached the top and are strong enough. With a view to grazing at a later stage, it is of advantage to position the plants right next to the tree trunks. However, you should not destroy too many of the supporting tree’s roots when planting. You can avoid this simply by making a hole only a few centimetres wide with a long drill, a pointed iron rod or a wooden stake for planting the cuttings. But you don’t necessarily have to plant a vine directly next to the tree trunk; it will also be able to climb if it is planted 1-2m away, but still beneath the treetop. You can also dig a wider hole at least 50cm deep in which a stake should be placed if possible. Carefully wind the cutting of the vine you have selected for propagation around this stake. The cutting can be up to a meter long and should have a thick crosswise piece of old wood at the bottom. All cuttings always root better in a diagonal or even horizontal position. By winding the vine cutting gently around a stake, you not only give it the benefit of being in the more favourable diagonal position but also the advantage of having a long piece of the cutting buried in nourishing fertilised soil with only a short end shoot sticking out of the ground. Leave only two buds above ground; the lower one should be only just above ground so that you can cover it lightly with straw in spring to protect it in case the upper one freezes. However, our technique for supporting climbing plants has exactly the reat advantage that vines and other plants are well protected by the supporting plants and are also much higher up later and thus no longer in the area of ground frost. Especially on our quinta in Portugal with its high risk of early frost, it would never have been possible to propagate fig trees, for instance, without this protective technique. The young shoots on the fig branches buried in the ground would have frozen immediately without the protective plants. If you want to propagate figs from cuttings, you should take a sound piece of freshly sawn fig branch as thick as an arm from your favourite tree, from which, in turn, a small side-shoot about half a metre wide should be growing out sideways (T-cutting). Bury the thick branch in a hollow or trench where you are planting a hedge, so that only a short piece of its thin side-shoot is still sticking out of the ground.

Propagation with T-cuttings

This technique of planting T-cuttings with the thick stump buried in the soil and the thin side-shoot sticking out also promises success with species of tree which cannot be propagated so easily using simple shoot cuttings. Examples are olive and mulberry trees. In our region of Portugal all cuttings have to be watered all the time during the first summer, that means roughly every three days. This is not such a problem in Germany. There any cuttings from currants, quinces or roses , for instance, which are stuck in the ground in spring before buds form are almost sure to take root.

Drawing: T-cutting for propagating old trees such as fig, olive or mulberrry which do not root easily. A thick freshly sawn piece of branch with a long side-shoot is planted like a tree and watered constantly during the first summer. Don’t prune the end of the shoot!

Protection of species – Arrogance of officials who are slaves to big corporations

But let me go back to the climbing vines: there are, of course, big differences between them. Neither can all grafted purchased vines be so easily and successfully propagated from cuttings because, just as with the apples, the grafted sort often has weak growth or does not even root. Besides this, the authorities today still have the presumption to want to forbid gardeners to propagate their fruit trees and bushes. We should try resolutely and as soon as possible to put an end to this impertinence on the part of civil servants and parasites in the administration in collaboration with criminal corporations, which have long been simply committing one (not only ecological) capital crime after another and have ruined our planet. Nobody has the right to view species of plants and animals as their own property. Like human beings, they belong to God and only grow on account of HIS spirit within them. In my opinion, respect for our fellow creatures should stop us in general from “selling” animals and plants. – At any rate, you can cover an entire house with the American morangeiro grapevines which are not permitted for viticulture. This sort of grape does in fact grow in cooler zones as well, but it scarcely produces drinkable wine there as it needs full, hot sun to produce quality grapes.

Other trees as supports

Other trees can also be used as supports for climbing grapevines. But you should remember that the vines need regular pruning and climbing tall trees can be dangerous. Vines in holm oaks have to be taken down and rehung in often extremely risky manoeuvres because the trees need their foliage cutting back or their bark removing. But the oaks are at least stable for climbing, whereas with willows, for instance, there is always the fear that they may break. Other sturdy trees are cherries, which may have already shed their leaves when the grapes are ripening, so that the latter can ripen fully in the open in the last sunshine of the year. Grapevines on tall cherry trees may, however, also require dangerous climbing and long ladders.

Neither are such trees ideal for climbing plants where you can too easily break off the fruit buds when climbing them or with the ladder in autumn and winter. Examples are almond and plum trees, where you must move with great caution even when cutting out the dry or thin branches and shoots. Nevertheless, this year I used a plum tree with sparse branches and blue plums ripening in autumn as a support for scarlet runner beans. Because of this, the tree had an excellent yield and stood the summer heat better. The plum tree seemed to like the runner beans climbing all over it and the red flowers constantly attracted a large number of flying insects but not the quantities of ants and lice which had been present in the previous years. However, the latter hadn’t caused me any problems. After all, the lice also produced food for the bees and they, in turn, honey so that anyway something good landed on our table in the end.

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Rule: we don’t fight either insects or fungi

It is at any rate permissible to protect trees which threaten to die because they have been attacked by insects. For instance, if insects are damaging the bark of the trees, you can paint it with clay and cow manure or some kind of liquid manure. You may also use traps against voles. In the case of such attacks you should ask yourself the following questions:

– Do I need this tree in this place?

– Can’t/shouldn’t a different one stand there?

– What might it be lacking in this position?

– Is it undernourished? Have I given it too little dung?

– Is the soil too compact?

– Is it exposed to strong microwaves?

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However, the minutious work of removing all the twining bean stalks from the plum tree’s branches now awaits me and I will certainly have to choose a day where I have enough peace and patience so as not to break off too many flower buds or just to saw off entwined branches. Therefore a grapevine as a permanent climber does not seem very favourable, especially on this late plum tree. It would in any case be better on the early plum trees, because the vine leaves have not yet fully developed when the plums are ripening. You can in fact try to restrict the vine to the lower branches, but in autumn you will still have to pull down the long new shoots, thus destroying flower buds. With some climbing plants there may be real competition for light between two sun-hungry partners with one of them being the loser. In this case you will have to decide either for a crop of plums or for sun-ripened grapes. Plums have no chance against strong American grapes, for instance, if the latter are permitted to climb as they wish. Furthemore, plum trees are not always stable enough to bear grapevines but better as supports for beans, passion fruit or at any rate kiwis, which like shade, in the lower regions.

Other suitable trees for use as permanent supports or for vines to climb on, though not in all cases, are those which need pruning constantly or which can or have to be radically modified because they grow too exuberantly or often die completely or partially. The peach tree is an example. As with the vines, we try every year to encourage the peach trees to grow thick new branches with shoots forming three-part quality fruit buds, which will produce big peaches the following year. As all the thin side-shoots can be removed, peach trees are relatively low and clear-cut fruit trees. The drawback with such peach trees consisting of long branches with shoots is that they are greatly bent down by the weight of the fruit. Climbing grapevines have to be rehung after two years at the latest. Therefore I would recommend ordinary or scarlet runner beans as the ideal climbers for peach trees requiring such intensive attention.

Ungrafted and especially unpruned wild peach and wild plum trees can, however, be used as supports for grapevines if the supporting trees are subordinated to the needs of the climbing vines, that means either the trees are not pruned and stripped of foliage at all or the leaves are cut off without any regard to the peaches. – This can be absolutely sensible and effective if you continually use the leaves from the support trees for feeding the goats. Wild peach trees (grown from seed) often produce a considerable amount of foliage.

Almost all trees and hedges can be used for climbing plants

Actually a large number of combinations, in fact almost any, are conceivable and possible. You can even fish some of your grapes out of a blackberry-quince-rose hedge if you wish. At least nobody will steal them there. (Except the bees and wasps.) In this chapter I would also like to familiarize you with our way of thinking and approach to using materials. Such careful preliminary considerations and planning are only of importance when you are establishing and running large farms where domestic animals are also to be integrated smoothly and which are to be run without a lot of work and machinery. Through skilful planning you can do a lot in advance and determine what and how much work will still be necessary later, that means what you will have to do there in later years.

It is neither permissible nor an art to brutalize nature with sophisticated technological means, use chemical fertilizers and spray away your mistakes with poison! But to plant sensible natural orchards and cultivate them without machinery and chemicals is both permissible and an art! There every plant must be placed in exactly the right place and there must not be any gaps or weaknesses. Otherwise the goats, chickens, wind, water, drought, heat, fire … will come and destroy the natural work of art.

In the next chapter we will deal in somewhat more detail with the living requirements of the individual species and types and with the plant and animal partners with which we wish to fill our life garden.

Arcades as supports for climbing plants/ living houses

If you plant or sow two parallel rows of fruit trees of the same main sort, i.e. either apples, pear-quince-medlar or the whole range of possible fruit with stones and do not prune them or only in such a way that all the trees develop as long and pliable shoots as possible, then you can easily bend the shoots over to the next row. From there you can bend over another shoot of equal length so that they both cross in the middle of the two rows at a height of at least 2m. Then twist the left shoot carefully round the right one so that a nice arch is formed. It is best to twist them together in early summer as long as the new shoots are still more elastic and pliable.

Once we have joined the shoots of the two rows of trees, an archway – also known as an arcade – is formed. As early as the end of the year the fast-growing entwined stems may have grown together at one of even more places so that a sturdy arch is formed which can and should be strengthened subsequently by twisting side shoots together to form a lattice.

This natural house construction is very sturdy and may also be used to support climbing plants. But it is capable of much more, as there may be an exchange of sap on account of a large number of stems growing together and thus sap can be directed to any places where you wish to have fruit.

But if we go one step further and think about the shape and the enormous growth of this structure, it will soon occur to us to make the increasingly stable construction so dense that rain can no longer penetrate through the arch. There are several possibilities to achieve this:

Either we wait until the closely planted trees or the entwined branches virtually forming a tunnel of branches become so thick that there is no more space between them,

or we periodically cover the arch with a layer of mulch and later even with a thin layer of soil so that the twigs under it gradually turn into roots and the actual fruit trees virtually grow a story higher.

Old picture of a natural house (from K. Kirsch “Natural buildings from living trees”)

Do you want a “cellar” or rather a “dwelling house”? – If you are thinking about a large natural house from living trees, you should not work with fruit trees but with large trees which grow together well and are suitable for entwining. If you don’t want to wait too long before moving in, a fast-growing species of tree is to be recommended. I recommend a type of poplar with smooth bark, one reason being that this tree with its long, sideways-spreading roots can be planted/sown in very dense parallel rows to make living house walls. If you cut off all the side branches, the poplars will grow to a tremendous height within a very short time but can still be easily bent and entwined at a height of 4m and more and grow together quickly after being entwined.

Current knowledge of the possible uses of such constructions from a technical standpoint is – like any other natural knowledge – very limited. But we can assume that many a type of living tree will develop possibilities which are hardly conceivable today.

About P. I. System/ Diet and Life/ Volume 2

Establishing life gardens:

Imagine living in a jungle consisting only of useful plants, especially your favourite ones in the best quality… in which busy bees buzz, chickens scratch and goats produce excellent milk for your children. This fruit forest is warm, offers protection from the wind and also shelter from rain, which may possibly be found in open huts, caves or even in socalled living houses made exclusively of trees. You live there peacefully with your family and animals, watch your children grow up healthy and without problems and need nobody and nothing else in the world. – If you can imagine such a world, such a biotope with people, animals and plants, then you can more or less envisage what the Paradise Island System intends to do with you and the world in a somewhat modified fashion and proposes as an alternative to the looming path to doom! – An illusion? Utopia? – Only as far as the unreal ideas which some euphoric minds have of a natural garden are concerned! The unrealistic and ineffective pseudo-natural systems that present-day ecologists and permaculturists still create for want of real testing are far removed from what we imagine to be a Paradise Island and would not feed either us or our animals. I am not even sure that certain ideas of natural farming which represent little else than what is today called wilderness would have any advantage over previous traditional farming, which – it is true – produces food of inferior quality but at any rate in a sufficient quantity.

Neither Fukuoka’s “do nothing” agriculture nor

Mollison’s permaculture are good models!

Apart from the fact that we do not live in Australia or Japan, the suggestions in this trendy literature are still inadequate and not to be aspired to in the long run with regard to our goals of an self-sufficient way of living on the basis of a natural diet. For a rich and healthy life in line with our ideas we require the structures of an orderly effective wood or forest bearing fruit and seeds. Fukuoka’s trick of cultivating without ploughing, on the other hand, does not show us anythng new but is merely based on the pond farming practised at the beginning at the 20th century. Shallow ponds are created and, after plentiful fertilisation with lime, seeds are sown in the remaining fertile mud which has been enriched with dead micro-organisms. A wonderful thing, of course, but not the epitome of gardening wisdom.

And we are not able and do not want either to eat or cultivate in the way that Mollison lives. Eating meat and cooked food…? No thank you! As long as people still depend on dead bodies for their food, certain known problems, or better expressed, all the tragedies and misery in this world will recur again and again. – Thus we need effective fruit and nut tree orchards on at least three quarters of the area and between them cereals and vegetables in sensible combinations with domestic animals for milk, cheese, eggs and honey!

After ten years of natural gardening practice we have managed to leave many other of those modern half-matured fantasies of a natural garden happily behind us. Thus we do not believe

Note: That kind of natural disciple does indeed ask the tree but often does not ask the tree’s owner!

that we have to ask trees if we can pick their fruit. We also “take the liberty” of pruning our fruit trees in such a way that they yield fruit. I have the suspicion that psycho-political dogmas (anti-authoritarian education, laissez faire) from the 70s still linger on or it is simply a question of ignorance and a lack of skill on the part of the gardeners.

As soon as you start realising excessively idealistic ideas of a paradise, you will start wanting to order and organise your “jungle” of cultivated plants better. Then it is a matter of arranging all the plants clearly and simply according to their needs, of using their crops in a optimal way and, on top of that,of integrating all important species of domestic animals in such a way that they do not damage the plants but, on the contrary, help and save us work. Expressed in musical terms. we must use “the art of the fugue”.

We are to be measured by the yields from conventional mechanized farming

Even if there are some markets for expensive organic produce, we should and have to be able to measure our yields with those of mechanized farming. We do not want to sell our vegetables at excessive prices but, all in all, our holistic system should still be competitive without using machinery. We work with an exact, effective and systematic division of all pieces of land and functions, especially concerning the herds/flocks of animals. Our operations are more efficient because we do not sell much individual produce but have the entire life framework to offer. Living and learning on our farms does not, therefore, mean working for a wage but is the desired objective of the life learners who go there and who donate money to our school instead of wanting to be paid. Marketing is more successful in connection with a guest house or a simple form of rural restaurant with exclusively home-produced food. If it was possible to establish a home for old people or even a sanatorium, which could cure in the best possible way using our food, it would no longer be necessary to worry about the financial side of the project.

Different degrees and forms of integration

Here we can in fact choose between various degrees of integration, but especially people from cooler regions are more dependent than others on a certain level of culture with solid buildings, use of animals, fire, food storage, etc. Dreaming of an ever-warm palm beach in winter is of little use there. Therefore I would also like to build these necessary basic structures on my own again and make plans for this. This is just the reason that wilderness or doing nothing is by no means useful at first, but we will have decades of construction work once we have finally realized that the old “civilised” system has led us to a dead end and a predicament. If we want to reach the level of culture of, say, the 18th century again, we will have to come to grips with extensive learning processes. Otherwise “civilisation” will decline into misery and have to end itself in a nuclear war.

The obstacle of extreme civilisation

There may still be a lot of reasons stopping us from spreading my life gardens, which have already been successfully tried out on a small scale. But if we take a closer look, these reasons often just stem from ignorance and fear on the part of people stuck in old traditions, from very complicated and totally wrong legislation contrary to nature, but also from envy, greed, narrow-mindedness, rigidness, pampering and above all the addiction of citizens perverted by “civilisation”, who, like any other addicts, want to forcibly impose their world with its restrictive norms on all others so that nobody can break out of this civilisatory cycle of addiction or escape from this comfortable, shallow disease called consumer civilisation. Even if they were free of all compulsions as citizens and of increasingly comprehensive surveillance by the “social state, it would be extremely difficult for new Paradise Island residents to develop from the chaos there, in which the lonely modern-world egoists have detached themselves from all their broken relationships and ties,. And anyone who might still be free there would immediately run a very great risk of being arrested and forcibly civilised as soon as they simply just approached “civilisation” somehow and professed to be a free natural person. But I still think we should and must manage to find this way out of civilisation, or at least keep it open for all those who want to take it, even if it may cost us our own (natural) life. And so I will also show you in detail in this work how you can build up and maintain a life and paradise garden, regardless of whether all the knowledge components are agreeable to the internationalists and industrial tycoons or not.

The P. I. System is suitable for any region

It is obviously not possible to realise our “islands” in the same way everywhere. But if we now try to leave our limitations and all the many self-made blockades behind us and open ourselves to this new world, my systems shows viable ways for any location. It is not a question of land since that is available everywhere in abundance. And I will show you here that it is even possible to have a dense population with the P. I. System. Of course, it will be easier for us if we are ready to move to a warmer country, where we may be able to live and work in closed family units without any “enforced socialisation” even today in the age of the Internazis. Then it is possible to begin what I am writing about here immediately or within the next few years. But who knows what tomorrow will bring or how long what countries will still take in foreign settlers. I consider it very possible that the error of mixing races and nations will soon be recognised as such and that everybody will then be sent back to their original nation.

Differences between warm and cold countries

It is, however, necessary to modify our thinking in several respects for the bureaucratized cold countries, where to be honest I wouldn’t want to live any more although I come from there. In those countries it is not possible to plant densely because not enough sun would come into our gardens then. Whereas in the south we often have to protect ourselves from the sun and even have to hide some fruits in thick hedges so that they do not burn, we cannot get good crops of fruit in the shade in northern countries. There plenty of space should be left between the hedgerows and the fruit hedges should, if possible, be planted in a north-south direction so that all the plants get an equal amount of sun. In cool regions we also have a lot of problems with the winter time and have to concern ourselves far more with storage and natural food processing. On the other hand, cooler regions have an ideal climate in summer for vegetables, grass or dairy farming and as a rule have very fertile soil. The most important food-providing trees are still grown in Germany at least. Besides, numerous forecasts for the future expect it to get noticeably warmer there.

Parallel to the winter problem in the north, in the warm countries there is the possibly equally or even more devastating hot, dry summer. Fortunately this problem can be largely eliminated in the long term with our system of gardening. As soon as our fruit woods have grown sufficiently dense and tall, the climate in them changes perceptibly. The land has more shade, is cooler and does not lose its moisture so quickly. It will rain more often again on large areas. Yet, there is no flooding, excessive cold or violent storms. (Unless the mobile phone transmitters with their microwaves or even military weapons working on the same basis such as the Harp system in Alaska cause unnatural storms.)

It already happened in our small garden here in Portugal that with a completely clear sky we had rain that formed slightly above our land and then fell on it. This summer the thermometer scarcely rose above 35° in the shade for the first time.

Even if most of the species of plants and animals are also suitable for German conditions, I would like to point out here once more that the garden system described is not (yet) geared to German conditions but is intended for the constellation of plants described here somewhere between a latitude of 20 and 40 degrees.

Why we don’t want to settle in Germany (at present)

The P.I. System, our life school, initially still requires a group of land owners with similar attitudes, whose land should be scattered over the whole world to be gradually turned into life islands and life schools. Only later, when the worst is over in Germany, can we operate there directly again. Because of the complete suppression of our nation by the coercive methods of the Orwellian state administration I see little chance at present of realising our inventions and natural way of life in Germany. In my P.I. System I have written nothing but the truths found and experienced directly from nature with pure senses. As long as I/we are persecuted and run the risk of being victims of the terror of officialdom in Germany and their coercive institutions (unnatural jobs, urban prisons, compulsory medical and psychiatric treatment, schools…), I/we will stay away from there. Also in this centre of the so-called western society of values, international socialist left-wing ideologists (“Internazis”) have promoted themselves over all religions to a new kind of infallible dogmatism and established themselves on their own as the measure of all values. With their pseudo ethics, their “new” old type of left-wing bourgeoisie based on modernist presumption, which believes it can direct the whole world with reason and its own thinking, they have created what is probably the most dangerous “absolute” ideology in the world at present. This presumption of the western world is an approximately inverse proportional relation to its true knowledge and abilities. What can these people, who are totally poisoned physical wrecks and therefore mentally misguided as well, really know? Where does knowledge come from? – When I say from the real connection of a human being living a natural life with the only God and Creator, the Lord Jesus Christ, I will only reap at the most a pitying smile in a world that is actually ruled by hell at present.

Godliness leads to lawlessness, chaos and unnaturalness

This humanity led by demons is therefore united more than ever before in despising and gradually starting to persecute Christianity. – As far as we can still describe it as such, Germany was “buddhistified” a long time ago, people believe in reincarnation and carry on all the magic practices of the oriental cults (yoga, reiki, tantra, transcendental meditation .…). The apostasy started in 1965 with the Vatican Council of that time, in which the Internazis took over the helm in the background. Whereupon the Santa Ecclesia suddenly wanted to be the first in the modern trend, changed its liturgy, became ecumenical and “liberated” itself from the old system and truth. The good old times or far better ones, which would only enter with obedience to the natural and divine order, will never be able to return under the Internazi leaders and oriental demons. – With all this we must still be glad if Germany does not also fall into the hands of other evil ideologies. Islam, the scientologists .… and many others as well will still want to “conquer” this heap of civilisation scrap until it comes to its utter end.

Note: Anyone who is not familiar with my writings and the connections here may easily take offence at my hard-sounding words and find them to totally exaggerated, wrong, erroneous …. Therefore I would like to ask such uninformed people some questions:

What can we call a social system,

a government and power constellation which

standardises its media and does not permit deviating opinions?

no longer uses its schools to convey its nation’s values but abuses them for propaganda purposes in order to infiltrate and educate people to hold a “uniform opinion” dictated from above?

forcibly psychiatrises people with deviating opinions and depersonalizes them with chemical drugs, brain operations and other brainwashing techniques, i.e. deprives them of their personality, character and knowledge (personality murder)? (I have just learnt that people with “microwave madness” are psychiatrised nowadays. Pointing out damage from mobile phones now evidently directly disrupts companies’ business and the methods of those in power who brainwash and manipulate the public through the media.).

ridicules and defames the traditional values and customs of its people along with their religion usingall conceivable means and tries to destroy them by taking in foreigners with their traditions and religions?

simply bans unpleasant opinions or truths or even declares them to be “crimes” and takes legal steps against them, or even eliminates certain words and expressions from the language?

maintains a gigantic, parasitic civil service and administrative apparatus similar to a spider’s web so as to be able to perfectly control, manipulate, spy on, coerce and subjugate its “transparent” citizens in all sectors?

simply rules openly against the will and even the (enforced) people’s constitution, when it is unable to steer the citizens in the desired direction by manipulation?

….

Well, what do we call such a system? – Democracy? – Hardly! Here we have to do with a barely concealed modernistically tyrannical dictatorship of consumers and technology with a left-wing fascistoid stamp, the “Fourth Reich”, the Internazis! – It is clear to me that the “civvies” do not want to listen to my words and follow my way and that people often simply attack me so as to destroy my ideas. For what I say and intend sounds coercive in many people’s ears, alone because truth always exerts inner pressure or even forces its fulfilment in a certain way. – My suggestions may prompt considerable changes. But I cannot be accused of destroying the planet, making people unhappy and ill, oppressing and exploiting, ruling with terror and war on a small and large scale …. in my “new world”, which is undoubtedly the case in the old world.

My suggestion: Alone in this part of my writings there are perhaps more unpleasant truths, more forbidden knowledge, … than in the whole of the accessible “free” literature together. But I don’t want you to get into difficulties with the way of thinking and acting prescribed in the media because of a few passages in my book. Therefore I recommend you to stick some paper over any passages you do not agree with in such a way that the paper can be removed later if necessary. Any publishers or disseminators of my literature should also simply take out the parts which are important for them and delete the rest. Disseminators can order my entire work in sixteen volumes and create appropriate excerpts for their circles of readers.

But be that as it may. Even if the main reasons against realising our P.I. System lie in the direct and indirect coercive influence of the old world on us natural settlers, we do not wish to devote so many more thoughts to this sorry subject but rather look ahead to the sun and the future:

In the P.I. System/eco-practice I have designed a rectangular life island for two hectares of land. This provides for rows of fruit hedges in a north-south direction, which extend on either side of horseshoe-shaped farm buildings and stables/stalls in the middle and are surrounded by an outer ring of grazing land. This type of farm is probably best suited to the cramped and small German (family) conditions. In this book you will, however, find plans for building up larger self-sufficient circular systems for extended family or tribes, which can be enlarged concentrically outwards. Therefore more far-reaching structures and connections for building up an entire settlement and, if need be, an entire kingdom, are also described. The social structures of the extended family and tribal community are also presented as a requirement for such a large P.I. System farm and their rules expounded.

You can find additional references to the technique of planting fruit hedges in “Baumpflanzung [Tree Planting]” and “Natural Farming” and also to the choice of plants and animals, which are, however, to be described more precisely and supplemented here. You will learn about every important species and type with which we have “built” our life garden in a little story which follows.

Reservations about gardening books

There are probably still a large number of other good plant and animal combinations but I prefer to describe what I have experienced directly myself and what is living directly in front of my eyes. Today’s gardening literature also contains numerous errors and half-truths or wrong recommendations, so that I would no longer like to accept any theories from outside without examining them. It was only recently that I was fooled by one of these, I hope for the last time. I had read somewhere that feathery-legged bantams do not scratch in the garden. Now I keep some myself. – And they go through the undergrowth like a garden strimmer! How do such errors come about? – Chickens only scratch in places where there is something to eat. Perhaps the authors of this rumour had a sterile garden? Our feathery-legged bantams have their peculiarities and advantages, but different ones! – (With us) they are more trusting and tamer than normal chickens and, what certainly is true of all of them, they do not fly, so are much easier to keep fenced in and also to keep in our outdoor/garden and living areas. They do not fly on to tables or even on to a low bed. And even when they drop something undesired somewhere, their excrements are relatively dry and very easy to remove without trace.

Of course these bantams do not actually scratch as violently as large species of chickens. And this can mean survival for a large number of plants in chicken gardens. For example, for broad beans or large leeks, which we cut or eat down to a height of ten centimetres, after which they can be planted out for further growth. Even closed beds of onions consisting of strong plants or even sturdier types of salad, such as endives, sugar loaf, red oak-leaf lettuces or thick-leaved lettuces can, with luck, still grow where there are not too many hens without being destroyed or eaten, when there is no lack of other greenery. A large scratching species of mother hen, on the other hand, may even flatten medium-sized maize. Compared with them, these bantams are really very garden-friendly. But we cannot say that they do not scratch! – We must also distinguish between different types of soil here. Light soil is, of course, more vulnerable to scratching.

In Part 1 of Diet and Life I recommended beginners to keep normal sorts of chickens initially for the sake of simplicity and so as to be sure to get a good supply of eggs. We can differentiate more precisely with the now outlined larger circular farms on areas of up to 100 hectares for an extended family growing into a natural tribe:

Feathery-legged bantams possibly in the life gardens, people’s living areas, the inner ring zone … Comparable to dogs or cats in the old world. The need to protect the bantams from predators is far greater than with larger species. They should without fail be kept out of all areas with predators larger than the mouse weasel. Even cats are able to kill them. They will also die if they fall into ditches or holes.

Normal chickens everywhere in the avenues, narrow passes and arcades for a better use of rubbish and for a better use of goat, horse and cow feed deliberately together with these animals or separately in individual segments of field to graze, weed and fertilise.

Guinea fowl in the area of the star-shaped avenues and in all corner and wild areas of the farm which are safe from predators (larger than mungos/stoats). Guinea fowls live mainly on grass seeds and insects. They are excellent guards and immediately give the alarm when intruders enter. Unlike other types of chickens they form permanent couples. Thus it is not necessary to reduce the number of extra cocks constantly. They must not be allowed to come into contact with beehives.

Ducks only where there is enough water. Possibly also in irrigation channels. They fertilise the water for your plants. There are types of ducks which lay a large number of eggs. But their eggs are not as popular as hens’ eggs. We often make mayonnaise out of them.

(See also P.I. System/Tribal Laws concerning the choice of species and questions on breeding.)

Choose domestic animals carefully!

In general our farms are laid out for domestic animals and are actually not capable of functioning without them, at least in the way described here. It is with concern that I note increasing tendencies in Germany not to appreciate domestic animals and get rid of them. Regular extermination propaganda is also being made especially by animal rights activists and vegans. Yet, it is a gross error to believe we would be able to do without animals or even live better without them. Therefore in this work I hope to be able to show you the manifold importance of domestic animals.

If there are still settlers who believe they can and should do without dairy animals and wool – which I consider to be cruel alone on account of the children – poultry grazing on grass, such as turkeys and geese would also come into question for them. We avoid this large kind of poultry because there are often bad-tempered and biting individuals among them that can frighten children or even be dangerous for them (pecking their eyes). Our life islands are, in principle, planned for children and designed as ideal development areas especially for our smallest ones and their mothers. It is not acceptable that there should be even a single “biter” or “pecker” there.

No predators on the island!

I still find it incomprehensible that people keep predators or dogs which not only frighten children to death but can even injure or kill them. Even if today there are still people who like such perverted animals, I can never permit them on P. Islands. As a warning example I mention here the Australian dingo, which was brought in as a “dog” by settlers a long time ago and became wild. In the meanwhile, the dingo has advanced to killer number one in Australia. Some dingos have become absolute gourmets. They only eat their victims’ livers, which is why they may sometimes kill a dozen sheep or more in a cruel way for one meal!

Choosing plant species:

In principle, with both vegetables and fruits you should be sure to give preference to all good sorts already found on or near your land. But check the quality of the fruit exactly first. Not every indefinable apple on an old tree is a valuable old sort, which are otherwise actually in fashion again today. On the other hand, you can only recognise the quality of a storage apple after it has been stored properly for some months. Then some kinds which are considered inedible and worthless straight from the tree suddenly taste delicious.

But in many regions people actually only fe(e)d apples to pigs. but we, who do not want to live from and with pigs, must, with all fruit and vegetables, always orientate ourselves by the best taste and easiness to digest. Our fruit wood should produce a large quantity in the smallest possible area and also contain a large variety of species and types of the best possible quality. And so you will again and again want to replace numerous fruit trees which are still no good even after the best fertilisation and proper pruning by young trees available on the market or by grafting, possibly even with cuttings from trees in your home country. You should not be too afraid of buying grafted types which allegedly only bear fruit after being sprayed with poison for your islands. Their vulnerability usually results from cultivation mistakes and wrong fertilisers and also the lack of of useful insects in the plantations of the monoculture “profis”. However, it is better to go to traditional, experienced nurseries and avoid expensive, modern potted trees. But even the chain store plants pepped up under artificial and unnatural conditions can, after an initial period of sickness, regenerate themselves and become healthy in natural surroundings, like any person or animal from “civilisation”, if the gardener stops giving them “medicine” and feeds or fertilises them well.

Chance seedlings can often provide good species

Of course you can also grow seedlings and trees yourself. We can leave chance seedlings to grow in our hedges until the first fruit is ripe, or longer. A lot of seedlings only develop optimal fruit quality at an advanced age or with good care and fertilisation. Seedlings are even advantageous in all the double hedgerows filled with plants or twigs, which I here call “filled hedges”, because they send out roots from every part of the trunk and can therefore be filled

Note: With allusion to such similarly filled approx. 1m-wide garden walls made of twigs, which I have christened “filled walls”, and in contrast to those supported at the sides with stakes which need not be planted deep if they are be joined to the opposite ones halfway up to form an H. String or wire can be used for joining but willow shoots are, of course, better. But in the living filled hedges you should use living twigs, which are entwined with one another.

upwards as much as you wish. True, a grafted branch may also develop roots, causing the base to lose its effectiveness, but this is mostly not desired with grafted trees as they then lose their specific qualities.

But you can, of course, graft in branches on to any fruit tree at any place you wish, that means at the top as well or only on single branches. Seedlings or parts of trees without grafted-in branches are preferable for places where you want the trees to grow together or be joined together, for example for living house made of trees.

My daughters are enthusiastic mushroom hunters

Above:

Julia with a large lepiota

Below: Joana, who has just

discovered another young boletus edulis

under the oaks

Caution with imported vegetable seeds!

On the other hand, you should be much more careful when importing seeds for foreign kinds of vegetables. For in this way good native kinds which have been grown and adapted over centuries can very quickly get mixed and lost. It is better to get seeds and plants from your neighbours and only import types of vegetables which are not yet in the country.

It is always worth asking experienced neighbours about the sowing and planting times in foreign countries and observing their methods.

But now more details about our most important Paradise Island inhabitants, which help us to create a paradisiacal fruit and vegetable garden as a food and living area for all residents:

Apples:

Plant individually, in hedges with climbing vegetables in the chicken garden or in a boundary or protective hedge (for example quince+rose, in case of danger from nibbling animals additionally blackberries up to a height of 180 cm, possibly plus vines up to the tops of the apple trees) when animals are grazing. Only permit fruit-bearing branches to grow above a height of approx. 180 cm or slightly higher (trees with tall trunks). Especially young apple trees are at risk from nibbling animals. Shade or climbing plants may be necessary in warm countries, depending on the sort. Very resistant to drought so far in spite of all its weaknesses and a pioneer tree on suitable ground or in wild form especially good on land not used for grazing. It can withstand both large amounts of rain and early or late frost. There should be other apple trees nearby for fertilisation. Two must always flower at the same time.

Kinds tried sucessfully in Portugal and kinds known in Germany

Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Gewürzluike, Gravensteiner, Boscop. – Most kinds from Germany would probably grow successfully on soil adapted to the location in southern climates as well. In future I would especially like to try and import more of the good old Swabian sorts that my grandfather had in his orchard to our island together with the apple wine and barrel – here clay amphora – culture.

Pruning apple trees: In the relevant literature you will find at least five different tree shapes alone for apples, each of which is pruned or “trained” differently. In addition, just an many ways of pruning are mentioned, which are necessary at various times of year but also at different stages in the tree’s life. – I would like to advise you to study this literature and special field but I know from my own experience that, after reading, your head is full of ideas but that certainly does not mean that you have open eyes for your plants and the situation which they are in at the moment. Pruning on its own is, strictly speaking, an extensive subject, a book in its own right. But here we need useful instructions of the simplest kind for P.I System beginners, that means rules explaining the principles rather than schematically technical details.

In any case, we often prune somewhat differently from the experts. True, we also want to have the largest possible crops of fruit in our garden beginning as early as possible and continuing for a long time, but not always and everywhere. Our systems need trees as living links in a food chain for everybody. We need tree leaves for our goats throughout the year, branches to build filled walls, shoots for woven structures, sometimes more shade, sometimes more light, sometimes living supports for climbing vegetables or grapevines etc.

Well be it for anyone who always manages to prune every tree and shrub in their garden at the right time or, even better, to let suitable grazing animals eat them back, in accordance with a plan which considers all the trees and shrubs but which also provides the goats and other grazing animals with food the whole year round! It is a great art to plan self-sufficient gardens in such a way that the goats, sheep, chickens and horses can be allowed into the separate parts of the garden in turn to carry out the necessary pruning and feed themselves – an art that probably nobody on this earth can master at the moment. Constructing houses from living, growing trees is equally unknown. In my opinion, most of the lack of inventiveness and knowledge concerning fields which have natural connections in this technical age stems from the use of machines. If I just forget about my tree clippers and saw, it almost becomes a must to build structures from living trees. Then I cannot always break off the excess branches but have to twist, intertwine and cover them. Then shaping and designing starts almost automatically.

Our gardens are to be regarded as works of art

Successful work in our gardens requires high qualificationsand it means and brings life. But we do not want to aim too high at the start and therefore do not assume that all P.I. System practitioners will become perfect gardeners in the near future and will want and be able to twist and entwine everthing growing in their gardens. Thus everyone should be arrmed with tree clippers and a saw and also some basic principles so that they can both get feed for their animlas from their garden and also learn to prune and look after their trees.

First about apple trees: in order to obtain animal feed we do not only prune them in winter but also while they bear leaves, but we never cut off thick branches, in particular when it is extremely hot or the sun is shining intensively! It is always best to prune in the morning or evening and in general not to remove thick branches in summer. We can still pick leaves in autumn after the great heat is past and can already easily see the flower buds for next year’s fruit. You must, without fail, learn to distinguish the flower buds from the leaf buds on all kinds of fruit trees. Otherwise you may well cut off the following year’s crop! If we take a good look at our apple trees in autumn, we find the flower buds mainly on the more horizontal branches, positioned on small pieces of branch projecting sideways from the main branches at right angles. On the other hand, we scarcely find any flower buds on the vertical, often fast growing shoots but the smaller leaf buds growing close to the branches.There may also be new shoots growing out below from the trunk. If we leave such shoots, they will only bear fruit in two years at the earliest. If we bend these shoots downwards at the right time (not later than June), they will produce more flower buds by autumn. The earlier you bend down the shoots, the softer and more pliable they are. You can often entwine them with our branches, hang something on them, wedge branches in …. Branches that shoot up vertically require a considerable amount of strength and sap which means that the horizontal, fruit-bearing ones may go short of these. Therefore the vertical shoots are often removed. However, apple trees can grow in very different ways and have very different shapes depending on the sort. Thus, there are kinds which still bear fruit on vertical branches (in particular when all the branches grow upwards). Such branches will be bent down automatically by the weight of the apples over the years and will, in turn, develop into typical fruit-bearing branches.

Questions about the tree

When we are considering whether we should cut out this or that new shoot or leave it to bear fruit, we should ask ourselves the following type of questions:

How much does the tree grow, how big does it want to get? (If we want to “downsize” a tree with strong growth, all the branches left will develop new shoots instead of fruit.)

How dense is the treetop? Are the new shoots growing in a position where there is room for them to grow? Is the tree’s foliage too sparse? Should it be denser?

How old and healthy is the rest of the wood on the tree? Should new wood be grafted into the old? Must I even cut off an old fruit-bearing branch in favour of the new one or trim it down to the place where a new shoot is growing out or graft in a new cutting? (A large number of new vertical shoots cause the old fruit-bearing branches to age faster.)

What is the relation between the trunk and treeop? How much can the trunk bear?

What position is the tree standing in? Is it at risk from wind? – In that case it should not grow up too high and should be possibly be made to have a short trunk and not too dense foliage.

Is it at risk from too much sun? – In this case it should rather be allowed to develop denser foliage. Can I make the treetop denser with new cuttings? – Or would it be better to let plants climb on it?

Where are there still gaps and how can I close them by lowering or raising branches? (It is often possible to make a weakly growing or old horizontal fruit branch grow more strongly to fill a gap by pulling it up and tying it at a sharper angle.)

Bush or tree?

There is a lot to think about, isn’t there? – Also remember that the tree itself mostly knows how it should grow. – Nevertheless, you may and should train every tree in your garden in such a way that it stands in just the place where you need it. You must be the “ruler” and assign everything its place. Otherwise unhealthy competition will arise among the plants with the better ones being the losers. If you want and need a low, sturdy bush, let the lower branches grow from the start. If you require a tree later, simply cut off all the side branches over the course of several years so that the trunk gradually becomes higher. If you want to turn a young tree standing on its own into a tall tree, you will for years have to look after a tall, thin, sensitive trunk that needs to be tied to a support until it can withstand storms to a large extent. Tall, thin young trees are twice as much at risk in hot regions because the sun mercilessly burns the dark wood of trunks in particular. In this case you may also need to paint a

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Basic recipe for trunk coating for protection against sun, harmful insects and nibbling by animals: mix clay, whey and fresh cow dung into a paintable paste and apply it on days without rain.

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coating on the trunk. – If possible, do not let tree trunks grow taller until they are completely in the shade of the treetop.

Building up the tretop: At the place where the trunk ends three main branches (four with pears, five with fruit with stones) should (finally) branch off at equal distances apart in different directions to form the “normal” top for individual apple trees. There may be a larger or smaller number of branches. We need not try to make trees grow according to a certain pattern. And practice will show that not every tree wants to let itself develop in an equally exemplary way. The differences in growth and appearance are very great already with apple trees. With espaliers or hedges, in turn, you create totally different shapes, such the fishbone spindle, where branches are trained to the left or right side in turn. With our fruit hedges as well, we often train even very long and extremely fruitful side branches horizontally or slightly upwards or downwards. If you want to stop your hedges growing taller you must remove anything growing upwards or bend it downwards.

Note: In our fruit tree hedges you can also adopt the method of bending the long shoots away from the row at a right angle and intertwining them with shoots from a neighbouring hedge, Depending on the type of tree and its similarity to the other tree, such intertwined branches may even grow together to form firm leafy alleys or arcades. (See the chapter on living houses)

It is thus necessary to exercise foresight in thinking and shaping the branches concerning our pruning or non-pruning. We need experience and knowledge of all the requirements and peculiarities of our plants. We can only obtain this if we live continually with our plants without any interruption, gradually developing keen watchfulness coupled with warm sensitivity for all the living creatures and plants present.

Just as you slowly learn a musical instrument, you will also only gradually get to know the tree in its entirety and its individual peculiarities, will be able to imagine what it will look like the following year, know what you want and plan to do with it and act accordingly. You consider the length of the fruiting branches and think about how far each branch will hang down or even snap when it is laden with fruit the following year. Then you prune fruiting branches which are too thin and stick out too far or check if you can connect them to the next tree, thus creating nice arcades or hedges. Then you link them by intertwining the branches or try to connect the sap channels directly by cutting, connecting and binding them together. (See P.I. System/Tree planting)

About the location: You must also consider where your tree is standing. If it is standing on barren soil and is infrequently watered and fertilised, it will not be able to grow many branches. In this case you should not only prune away shoots coming from the trunk and remove old wood but even prune down the yearly increase in growth of the individual fruiting branches. If you fail to do this in such a case, the apples will be too small or will shrivel on the tree. The whole tree would even risk completely drying up in times of drought.

But if the apple tree stands in the vegetable garden and is well watered and fertilised, you should leave the full growth under consideration of the above premisses.

Of course, you should take care of all your plants if possible, which means covering the area around the apple trees’ trunks with a large, well-watered and fertilised circle of mulch if the soil is dry and barren.

What can we do about voles?

Permanent mulch around fruit trees may, of course, lead to other problems in the shape of voles

especially in the spring. Therefore you should always stamp down the earth directly around the trunks especially with young trees and also set traps if you sink into a lot of voles’ passages when treading down the earth. If the roots of a young tree have already been gnawed away so much that the tree wobbles or is even starting to tilt and is not firmly embedded in the ground, you may be able to get it to grow firmly again by tying it to stakes after pruning. But if you do not manage to get rid of the voles, the last resort is to prune back the tree radically, then take it out of the ground and plant it in a tub for a year until it is well rooted again.

Use of apples: Eat them on their own, with (soft) cheese, in muesli, grated in milk, as apple puree, fresh juice/apple milk, cider and apple vinegar.

Also as sparkling apple wine: For this you need pressurised bottles and your sweetest apples (Golden Delicious), which are first made into juice and then fermented with half their sugar content. Then fill the juice into the pressurised bottles and keep them firmly corked until the juice clears. When opening the bottles you should have a glass ready at hand, as with champagne, to catch the liquid that shoots upwards. It is a good idea to make sparkling wine as the fermentation is stopped by the pressure, so it is sweeter and contains less alcohol.

Apricots:

They are prone to have pests on their bark. Can be grafted on to a plum base in places with standing water or in wet years. Choose small purple plums or sloes if you wish to have small trees. (They can also be grown in pots.) It is better to use the peach as a base for grafting in dry regions. (Use whatever grows best in the region.) You can fight the pests on the trunk or bark by grafting the apricot in very high up or into the treetop on the bases mentioned above.

Unlike peach trees, apricot trees do not develop so many small and thin side branches but almost only strong shoots. This is the reason that you should not prune them much. You should prune them when their growth potential has been exhausted and they need thinning and make sure that all the branches can move freely in the wind without rubbing on any other branch.

In my view, the sensitive apricot is the least suitable of all types of stone fruit for being manipulated into different shapes. While sturdy types of plum can grow together if need be through twisting and intertwining their branches, the bark of apricot trees very quickly becomes sick when it is damaged and also when its branches are tied or made into espaliers. However, it can help to have a small protective hedge of roses. Otherwise let the apricot trees stand alone in a sunny place so that you can pay attention to their bark.

Value: Apricots are among the first fruits with an excellent taste in the spring, which is why they mostly disappear from the tree“unnoticed” and never find their way into the kitchen, where they would otherwise be made into a sorbet with fresh cheese or dried.

Pears:

The pear is a good pioneer tree. It can stand drought and is nevertheless very resistant to standing water, so it can bear both extremes. Large old pear tree are resistant to nibbling from animals and can therefore stand alone on the animals’ grazing land. The wood of the small types of eating pears may, however, be too soft for grazing land. It is a good idea to protect them with quince hedges, as the trunks of the pear trees can thus be strengthened or their branches intertwined with those of the quinces and they can also be directly grafted on to them. In this way it would be possible to have the entire lower area planted with quinces which would then go over into pears above a height of approx 180 cm. Pears are robust enough to assert themselves in “hard” hedges of thorny plants (blackberries, wild plums or sloes, roses …) and can thus also stand in all (boundary) hedges with intensive animal grazing. Wild pear seedlings (and also plum seedlings) often grow in dozens under old trees and can easily be transplanted from there.

The wild types and old species of pear trees with big trunks are much more resistant but often not as tasty as the smaller new market sorts, which even voles fear because of the soft wood of their trunks.

Many types of pear tree do not need much pruning. Above all, remove any sick and dried out branches. But with some fast-growing kinds you have to prune the large number of shoots growing vertically upwards frequently and rigorously. Some kinds of small pears ripen very early (here), much earlier than any kind of apple. Many of the large and sweet pears ripen in the middle of the summer. Other kinds – wild ones as well – are picked when they are still hard and ripen slowly indoors, so that they can be enjoyed in winter. Pear trees can stand the summer heat better than apples and do not need shade. This, on the other hand, means that it is not so easy for them to get their full ration of warmth and light in colder regions.

Use: Many sorts are very nutritious, other contain a lot of sugar. Eat them on their own, with cheese or fresh cheese, preferably with blue cheese. They can be used to make puree, wine and vinegar or dried.

Oaks:

In the south holm oaks, cork oaks and also German ones (red oaks). Very resistant to drought and enduring. They even grow on barren soil. Stony, rocky areas are favourable. Cacti are welcome as the oaks protect them from frost.

Holm oaks have the hardest and strongest wood of all the species of tree I know. Their acorns are not bitter in good locations and years and are also edible for humans. Over the summer the end of the acorns extrude a milky juice on which bees and ants feed. We also need the trees for living houses, their hard wood for parts of many constructions. It is more resistant to animals’ nibbling than other species of oak. Neither are its acorns eaten so quickly by voles.

Cork oaks have less hard wood that also rots easily. On the other hand, their bark is all the more durable and it often remains intact for a long time after the inner wood has rotted away. In this way protected habitations for all kinds of insects and also for bees, owls are continually

Drawing: Multi-purpose cork bark for drinking vessels, baskets, dishes, etc. or as the simplest form of hive for bee-keeping. After reinforcing the cork hives with some (crossed) sticks across the middle inside, set them up in a sunny place facing south-east and protected from rain and wind on geomagnetic intersections. Wait until a swarm of bees moves in or catch a swarm in one of the hives. Leave the bees in peace until they go into the hives on their own. Then take everything out of the hives. Eat the honeycomb and set up the hive again in the spring.

created in areas with cork oaks.Their acorns are also almost or completely free of bitter substances and edible for humans depending on the location, sort and year. I suppose that in sunny years they are free of bitter substances because they ripen completely during the long summers.

Cork oaks are officially protected in Portugal so that no private owners can fell or mistreat them. The cork bark is removed by specialists in nine-year cycles. Their foliage is not allowed to be pruned two years before and after the removal of the bark. During the other years, on the other hand, the oaks have to be pruned. The aim of pruning young cork oaks is, above all, to obtain long trunks without branches. Therefore almost always only the side branches and later, after the bark has been removed, all new shoots growing vertically upwards are cut back so that the ends of the fruiting branches, which often grow exactly horizontally, grow further outwards. It is very impressive to see how old cork and holm oaks sometimes grow enormous horizontal fruiting branches as long as ten metres without their even bending in the slighest. This characteristic also predestinates oaks for the erection of tree houses. Of course, you should branch off the tops of young trees intended for this purpose in as many directions as possible at a height of approx. two metres.

Versatile oaks: Oaks are also suitable for creating sturdy living garden fences or fences and hedges for climbing plants and living houses or even robust stables/stalls or shelters. Imagine dense walls of soft, agreeable and protective cork oak trunks! Just sow an oak wherever you need a post for your fence! Or sow a really dense fence all at one time! The cork oaks’ living “posts” with their soft bark are very agreeable for attaching other fencing material or plants and do not rub.

So that mice do not eat the seeds, you can coat them with all kinds of liquid manure and/or sow them in cut-off plastic bottles and well covered with dung in the desired place.

If we let the oaks become big, we can prune them in the garden area in such a way that their tops only begin very high up so that they stand over all the other fruit trees like a umbrella, protecting them from night frost. – There is no need to be afraid of wind! Oaks can withstand storms well.

Note: We have also sometimes grown mimosas for such purposes. They grew very much in the garden area and had or were able to be pruned frequently but were always soft, safe and pleasant to climb. However, mimosas quickly bring a great deal of darkness and moisture into the garden – especially in countries lacking in sunshine – and send up shoots from their roots everywhere.

As cork oaks are relatively resistant to low steppe fires and when fully grown are also absolutely immune to dryness, heat and nibbling animals, you should always plant a protective belt of these trees in all gardens, which, if animals graze there regularly and supply manure, will also provide an enormous amount of edible mushrooms in wet years. So we should not measure the value of the oaks “only” by their tasty acorns for us and animals and their wood but also include their valuable symbionts, of which I will only mention a few here:

(Bohemian) truffles (pisolithus arhizus) for pickling and in onion salads, dishes ground with pestel and mortar, pastes, etc.

Boletus edulis in salads, dried, as an addition to many dishes, also in vegan sausages, preserves, soups, etc.

Lepiota, which you can dry, eat on their own or rolled in a mixture of ground wheat, egg, salt and spices.

Russula: For all purposes when you cannot find the other above-mentioned kinds.

This species of mushroom and its many sub-species is very common and easy to recognize

as inedible or poisonous ones taste bitter or sharp.

Above: boletus edulis

Centre and below: various puff balls

Knowledge of mushrooms is an important part of our life school, as very good and plentiful food can be obtained from this sector. You can buy one or more books on the subject and attend courses. However, the material appears very complicated and difficult to grasp with the traditional approach. Besides this, most books are only interested in recognising the mushrooms. The value of most kinds of mushrooms is unknown. I am sure that we still have a lot to learn and experience in this field, as the true properties and effects of a foodstuff can only be discovered by us raw eaters.

(More about this in the section on “Mushrooms”)

You can also find the above and many other types of mushrooms directly in your vegetable garden, if you have just one oak standing in or near it, avoid digging over the ground too often and frequently bring in manure and mulch. An abundance of mushrooms is another plus point for our tree garden and our general integration of fruit trees as well in all areas. Of course, it does not necessarily have to be oaks. A lot of mushrooms flourish under other trees as well or even without symbiosis with trees. Incidentally, you must never sow mushrooms but just create a suitable location or soil for each species. (A lot of mulch spread out to rot, leaves, manure, proximity to trees, not too cold and not too warm, protection from the sun, permanent moisture, etc). Mushroom spores are blown round the world to all the places where they can germinate.

We plant or sow German oaks in the wooded or wild areas and also as boundary hedges for grazing areas. The grazing animals like to eat them but oaks can stand having their foliage eaten constantly without dying. (The animals do not nibble the bark.) Sooner or later some of the oaks manage to grow beyond the area the animals can reach, after which they are out of danger. Nobody can harm them during the next 300 years unless they are struck by lightning, burnt down by humans or felled for their valuable wood or firewood or for the tanning agents in their bark. Their wood is

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Drawing/Text:

We avoid making fires wherever possible. We do not like the smell of the toxic smoke of any fire. However, there are great differences both in the smell and toxicity of fires and in the quality of the firewood. Oaks and olives provide the best wood for the open fireplaces in old Portuguese houses. Dry oak logs as long and thick as an arm are arranged in a star formation in the initial broom fire and then continually added to the centre of the fire as need be. In this way there is a minimum of smoke. Besides, the fire remains safely in its place and goes out by itself as soon as no more wood is added. You must not burn anything except pure wood. We do not use any paper for lighting either. Fires in stoves where the smoke passes through pipes and chimneys are less natural as a rule and generate more nitric oxide and smoke. That is why they are more toxic. Fuel burning in hot stoves causes that unhealthy, unnatural, stuffy, stinking indoor air, in which people in the north are used to making themselves sick and miserable the whole winter. In general, we do not insulate and heat rooms or houses, live outdoors during the day and go to bed at night. You may remember that in former times there were no windows even in old castles and manor houses, not even in the extreme north. Nobody was cold or froze to death at that time because all people loved life in the fresh air and were used to warming themselves up by the hearth or in the stables if necessary.

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very durable for (ship) building purposes. Oak posts also last many years.

The acorns from these oaks contain tannic acid and are not suitable for human consumption. But animals eat them. Their typical oak foliage is an important part of healthy animal feed. Especially cows and goats need it when they have indigestion or diarrhoea

Use: Fresh acorns fall from the tree daily for months and keep a long time out of doors. The ones that are not bitter for humans, the bitter ones for animals. Also in vegan sausages and pastes. Grind dry acorns, mostly mixed with grain or nuts. The bark can be used as medicine for indigestion and for tanning and dying leather.

Strawberries:

Here we also tried to import good, old kinds from Germany but found that they could not withstand the strong sun sufficiently. We managed to bring them through the summer in very wet places or well protected under trees but the indigenous sort produced a far less problematic crop in summer and autumn. We plant strawberies in rows on mounds and continually fill the trenches inbetween with straw. Grass must be removed if necessary and they are planted in the most protected parts of our fine vegetable garden, where we also sow out seeds and do not even allow the chickens to enter for most of the year.

Figs:

Propagation with cuttings from the tree, near walls protected from wind and frost. Also on balks or slopes, above springs or wet places fed by ground water. Fig trees love warmth and need a dry climate, because the fruit splits and rots in rain. It can be, however, that they do not produce any fruit if the weather is too hot and dry. In places where they have continual ground water and warmth and are both protected and well dunged – preferably with human excrement – fig trees bear masses of tasty and nutritious fruit up to three times a year and this ripens in stages so that you have a daily supply. – That is why the fig tree is the tree of life, which should and can stand alone in the best places on the animals’ grazing land (with a shield around the trunks of young trees). The local farmers say that figs can kill goats. However, this can only happen if goats that are starving or hobbled goats which have been kept on poor, treeless fields and insufficiently fed escape and come to a fig tree beneath which masses of half-dry and fresh figs are lying. Then they simply overeat. Such goats can just as well die if they get into a garden of cabbages or a field of half-ripe wheat. In fact, the figs taste so good to us as well and are so sweet that we must be careful during the fig season to eat enough greenery and drink enough milk. Otherwise you can expect to have some pain in your bones and joints or teeth. Figs are not intended to be eaten immediately but are meant to serve as providers of energy and sugar the whole year through. Dried figs soaked in milk are part of the daily diet on our Paradise Islands during times when there is little fruit. During the fig season watch out for people who eat too many of the half-dried figs although a lot of other sweet fruits are still ripe at the time. For the entire sugar requirements cannot always be met by honey alone throughout the year.

Pruning, peculiarities: Figs should not be pruned at all for many years. However, if they get too big and do not get much fertiliser, there is a risk that a large number of the branches will not bear leaves and the whole tree may even die. Therefore the Portuguese occasionally prune their fig trees radically, following which the trees have to build themselves up again completely with a new lease life and produce a lot of figs again. I have also experienced that some people scale off the bark to make fabric. In fact it can happen that goats remove the whole of a fig tree’s bark but it still does not die because its sap is transported in a hollow tube. Nevertheless I would not want to submit my precious fig trees to anything like that just to get material for clothes. – Why do we have sheep whose wool is more valuable than any plant fibres!? – When you plant tree species with hollow tubes, you should not prune the tips of the shoots. If you have to saw off branches, you should never do this in winter!

(Bread) cereals:

Culture is said to have first begun with the cultivation of cereals. The question remains as to what culture and if what developed was good and right. Here I would not wish to blame the good durum or kamut wheat, spelt, naked oats, barley, which is important for animals, and rye which grows in almost all climates for this “culture” but on any large self-sufficient farm I would plan a field of each sort of these classic bread cereals, on which animals could graze in rotation. Of course, it is a very labour-intensive procedure to grow cereals without the use of machinery. But often you mainly need the cereals for the animals anyway and so they can be left standing in the fields, which the animals graze on one after another. – This saves an enormous amount of work. At any rate, you will keep a horse or mule for ploughing and harrowing, then you harvest a few sheaves for your own needs, which you thresh immediately and store until it is eaten, and then open the field first to the chickens, then the sheep and lastly to the horses or cows.

Hay and straw: For the usual cereal growing and hay production for the large animals we need spacious, dry barns for storage. Cows, in particular, need enormous amounts of feed and you should consider in general if it is not better to confine yourself to (milk) sheep and goats, which are not so complicated, since they can find almost all the food they need in the fields in a suitable climate.

In my plan for constructing the farm (following chapter) I have, however, provided for spacious storage rooms, hollow spaces built into the stone walls and vaults or simple covered buildings for hay and straw in/along the boundaries (to the rear of the star avenues) of all separate plots and even larger covered areas in possible vaulted passageways in the ring walls, should the former storage facilities not be sufficient. Even if you cannot afford any stone walls or vaults but “only” filled walls made of twigs and sheeting, hay bales, corrugated metal, etc, hay and straw should always

Note: You should sow or plant living houses as early as possible with dense double rows, narrow passageways, arcades and avenues, thus creating natural roofs so that you will later be less dependent on artificial buildings.

be stored as near the field as possible so as to avoid any needless transport and, above all, so that what was taken from the field can be given straight back to the same field in a form refined by the animals’ stomaches. Therefore the best solution is covered, half-open shelters along the walls, which can be filled and slowly emptied by the animals which will later graze on the land and provide manure for the area where the harvest is over. In this way you might just occasionally have to slide open a grille or open a gap to let the animals get to the piles of hay or, if there are also feeding racks or milking stands which can be filled from outside (the avenue), they may be replenished from there. Such passageways in the walls which are open or can be opened lengthwise, also have the advantage that hay can be very well stored along all the (broad) sides of the plots without you having to swallow dust. Anyone who has had to do with one of the usual haystacks knows what I am talking about. If it is not possible from the beginning to solve the dust problem when dealing with hay and straw , it is better not to start keeping large animals. Appropriate planning in advance is even more crucial here for your health and life than in any other cases.

Planners should consider in advance how densely and exactly they can create the network of pathways. If they want to plant double hedges on all sides of all plots of land in the form of narrow or wide avenues or hollow passages from fruit trees, which will later become so dense that living buildings can also be constructed in these side pathways, they must connect these tree species respecting their shape and type to the intended use by animals. Small, narrow arcade houses for the chickens, somewhat larger ones for the goats and sheep, large and wide one for the cows and horses. The distance between the trees and the height of their subsequent lateral intwinement can determine the exact size of the passages for type of animals planned. It is, of course, ideal if the animals also find their food directly in the plots of land reserved for them.

Example: Hens prefer to live and eat near humans. They find their food in waste, dung (human and animal), mulch, under berry bushes, fruit trees, eat cactus figs, olives, insects, grains which fall on the ground in the cereals field, but also grasses, herbs, lettuce and especially cabbage. Ergo, you can actually allow them to be anywhere except for places where delicate vegetables reserved for humans are growing or have been freshly sown. This is why they can also get in (almost) everywhere.

I would use holm oaks, which are resistant to nibbling by animals, for the boundary of cereal fields to be planted in the outer plots of land which are to be grazed in rotation, but the oaks must be protected from goats while they are still young. – You could also plant blackberry bushes in the rows as well. Then we would later have the so-to-speak more natural substitute for cereals standing directly at the edge of the field. For dried acorns can be ground into flour just like grain. Then you might be able to mix cereals, corn and acorns together and grind them for animal feed.

Beware, hedges/arcades can easily become too wild

Here you need a lot of experience and can work well with the animals, especially leaf-eating goats and grass-eating sheep, because you will otherwise scarcely be able to control the growth of extensive fruit hedges or rows of trees together with the fields full of weeds, let alone shape and till them. If I had to imagine today that such avenues would one day again be “cared for” using electric saws and cutters, i.e. with the customary bush-destroying machines which tear up everything, I would rather shelve my ideas and plans for a better world right at the start. As long as people still believe their other “work” is more important and better than working in the paradise garden daily and even exclusively, as long as people still primarily “have to” earn money … it will not be possible to create a better world.

For a long time people have repeatedly tried to find the way back to paradise. Researchers have travelled to the ends of the world and have no longer been able to find a single people on this earth who knew how to live in harmony with nature. They are all wretched and decadent, eat meat and/or use fire! Here you can learn for the first time about a practical life system which at last makes a self-sufficient natural life possible!

Nevertheless, you must calculate in advance how and with what you want to tame – or better form and train – such a farm system. Above a certain height, pruning and shaping arcades and tree houses can involve dangerous acrobatic climbing. It is helpful to build light, mobile scaffolding beforehand or to take other precautions (piles of hay, constructions underneath to break a fall, climbing equipment, etc).

But back to cereals: true, there are other storage techniques out of doors to prevent even unthreshed sheathes of corn from getting too wet outside, but this is a rather risky matter. You do not necessarily want to feed mice and rats, birds, etc. And all your efforts may be in vain if it gets too wet after all or even becomes mouldy.

Apropos mould: Ergot, which can be recognised by the black corn husks, may develop in rye in wet regions and years. And we can expect it here as well as soon as mechanical farming with its fast and sure methods of harvesting, drying, sorting and storing catches up with us. Such ergot poisoning (alkaloids+LSD) made whole villages “crazy” in the Middle Ages and killed a lot of people, indirectly as well, because at that time the perpetrators of that apparent “witchery” were looked for and easily found, since people remembered the “witches” who appeared in their own “hallucinations”. The actual so-called witchcraft of the consumers of poisonous plants at that time did not, of course, by any means consist only in the chance and unintentional consumption of LSD in ergot but at that time especially in the deliberate production of so-called “flying ointments”, which had to contain an exact blend of poisons so that the users could leave their bodies as easily and safely as possible and “let off steam” in the world beyond, that means really do or not do what they wanted to in secret, even if it was otherwise forbidden. This scene of former times could be regarded as a forerunner of the modern drug scene. Incidentally, even today people who, for whatever reason, get into this seemingly still unknown supernatural state, which we also call the “PSI level”, are often committed to mental hospitals and are slowly tortured to death with electric shocks, are tied down for weeks, which is known as “fixation”, subjected to brain operations, etc. The so-called dark ages are by no means a thing of the past. All the bad or possessive spirits are still the same and continue to act more than ever on all sides involved. – But today they are better camouflaged and often wear white coats.

You can be rightly horrified that children used to be killed or taken from their graves to obtain fat for these “flying ointments” but even this abomination continues today. Abortion and the use of foetuses in cosmetics are everyday occurrences! In medieval times people used such macabre ingredients to make it possible to make a spiritual trip to the desired hells or orgies and also really to meet the devil. (Note: Anyone who wants to meet him can also do it with fat from pigs!) Today’s modern witches establish similar connections with drugs and their make-up without the slightest pangs of conscience and probably without even knowing about such things. Individuals who are possessed and also entire “modern” societies know nothing about their mistakes in this respect but defend, justify, protect, suppress, conceal, deny … their “sore points” often so stubbornly that they would rather die than admit or abandon them. (See also P.I. System/Forum 1)

About cereals again: These can, as the above digression showed, provoke a certain “social impact”, that means have a very changing and determining effect on a society. It has been clear to us for a long time that our diet is decisive for our situation, for the kinds of diseases and even for the psychic characterististics of people at their time. Nevertheless, people are not the sum of the food they eat, their natures are not determined by their bodies’ chemistry but exactly the reverse. According to their situations and natures, people change their diets so that their body chemistry and cells are in harmony with their mental states and natures. Therefore the reason why a lot of people absolutely do not want to eat and live naturally is primarily mental and not only physical (addiction, toxification) and is due to obsession.

People can and could not always freely choose and grow their food themselves, so that they unwillingly became victims of toxification and demonisation and are becoming so more and more, especially today. When food used to be short during the times when witches were persecuted, people just had poor cereals to live on – potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes were not yet available – which were ruined by cooking and baking …. nobody was able to escape the general madness or the typical symptoms of toxicity and thus the diseases caused by such a diet. A one-sided diet of (poor) cereals caused, for example, leprosy, the plague or the so-called St. Anthony’s fire (poisoning with ergot or rye where the limbs fell off) but today as a result of perfect storage and husking (white flour) we have other types of diseases, in which, however, similar physical and mental symptoms still occur so that, for example, the circulation in the extremities no longer functions properly and the body starts to fester and rot and mentally that people become depressed, lethargic and sluggish and carry a lot of problems with them in their lives.

People who eat their food raw notice the leaden heaviness caused by many kinds of cereals, remark how indigestible they are and also feel the mental effect immediately. They can recognise especially the considerable differences in taste particularly with wheat, at least 90% of what is offered today we would classify as inferior and inedible because of the excessive gluten content. People who eat cooked food do not notice any of this and eat what the bakeries provide with artificial aromas, then get the widespread diseases from toxic deposits and are no longer in full possession of their mental potential and fine senses because this food thickens their blood and makes it dark and heavy.

Therefore, we can and should restrict our consumption of cereals – at least of inferior sorts – but not stop eating them altogether. Combined with other ingredients (for example, greenery, oil, salt, onions, garlic, yolk of egg, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, pickled vegetables ….), that means in wholefood dishes, cereals are not only edible but very valuable.

So let us again look for the best and tastiest sort of wheat and continue to grow it. In addition, let us cultivate the types of (naked) oats and (naked) barley which contain no or little gluten, especially all types of corn from the short kind with small kernels to the tall broomcorn, all types of millet… and in addition plant chick peas, lentils and peanuts, which are excellent raw, dry slices of Jerusalem artichokes and grind them into flour, collect acorns and chestnuts, take seeds from the opuntia etc so that we are no longer dependent on cereals containing gluten. Then we will enjoy wheat when it tastes good to us and no longer from sheer habit and lack of alternatives. – And we are then also able to grow this small quantity of cereal ourselves.

So we grow as much as we can of all sorts of cereals and then feed them to the chickens when the winter is over if we did not need them after all.

Broom:

This is known in Germany as material for making brooms. Here all pieces of hot, dry wasteland are covered with types of broom. The Portuguese are afraid of it because of the risk of fire. Broom does indeed burn very readily and is therefore suitable for lighting fires for heating without the need of additional lighting material. Dry broom bushes are a source of free fuel everywhere in winter and as they dry again within a short time even in rainy weather, they do not need a special storage place.

As already indicated, these options are not very important for us, however. We appreciate broom because it can grow anywhere without water, provides food for the animals – goats also eat its seed pods – and bundled in sheaves it can be used to make a roof similar to a thatch but with a somewhat steeper angle. It can also be used to make baskets.

Hazelnut:

Completely frostproof. It can withstand drought for a certain time, then loses its leaves. Here it should be planted in warm locations on north-facing slopes, in frost hollows, wet valleys and also on the banks of streams. It is always best to plant several sorts in a row or block for optimal cross-fertilisation with the help of the wind. The main wind direction = the fertilisation direction. The typical hazelnut hedges produce a lot of shoots and branches but not so many nuts as the small trees. Hazelnut hedges or arcades provide nesting places und shelter for birds and chickens. We plant hazelnut bushes in all the nearer (chicken) areas along the walls where there is shade. (Opuntia in the sun) In hedges they can be used to divide pieces of land but chickens and sometimes goats can get through them.

Raspberries:

Can withstand drought only to a certain extent. The canes will increase considerably in number if they have sufficient water and fertiliser (mulch). A thick layer of mulch also protects them from drying out. If you are anxious to be able to pick a lot of berries without effort you should tie them to wires in a row at least in the first year – they will break out in the second. After the crop has been picked the old canes should be cut out and fed to the animals. A large number of new shoots will then come out of the ground. Such shoots which grow without any problem can either be transplanted or left in the spot where they started to grow. Two parallel quince hedges with a free corridor about 1m wide between them for the raspberries will keep the canes upright and are suitable for the chicken garden area.

The raspberry hedge is a light hedge not resistant to animals’ nibbling for the vegetable garden and the tree nursery, since it provides frost protection for vulnerable small trees or seedlings and can easily be removed or used as animal grazing later.

Black and red currants, jostaberries and gooseberries:

Red currants are common in the south. They can form the lower part of fruit tree hedges in all watered rows of trees in the inner parts of the garden. These hedgerows provide protection for all small animals and also allow them to pass through. For gardeners they are also more agreeable than thorn hedges (roses, wild roses, raspberries, blackberries …). You can simply leave any weeds you pull out under the bushes as mulch. Currant bushes are resistant to wind and cold and can easily be propagated with simple shoots.

Red currants should stand in the intensive garden area or between the rows of trees on the nearer plots of land, while blackcurrants can also be planted in the outer pieces of land which are used for grazing in autumn and winter. They can be planted in large quantities everwhere it is too cold and wet for grapevines. Sheep, in particular, do an excellent job in pruning the blackcurrant bushes in winter.

Redcurrants, on the other hand, need to have whole branches which have got too old cut out. – The sheep are not able to do this. For they simply eat any new shoots up to a certain thickness.

It is easy to plant large areas with currants, gooseberries and jostaberries simply by taking shoots from existing bushes. Picking and processing the berries is, of course, more time-consuming. – This is, however, only a problem for people from civilisation who do not (yet) have enough time for their garden. All the berries are sheer power packages of energy and taste. If you plant large areas with these berries, you not only have excellent places for your goats, sheep and chickens to feed but you can also produce berry wines of prime quality in conjunction with your own bee-keeping and honey production.

Gooseberry bushes are somewhat smaller than currant bushes and are able to break through hard soil.

On the other hand, jostaberries are larger. A bush can easily reach a height and width of two metres.

In the dry southern regions all these types of berries usually occupy a secondary position to grapevines, although the small berries are good gap-fillers in the fruit supply in the spring and in winter as well in warm regions.

Of course, it is better to plant wild (or cultivated) vine cuttings to have large fields of a foodstuff which is still green in the great heat in summer using. Sheep and chickens look after such large vineyards very well because they only eat the not so sour vine foliage but all the undergrowth. Chickens scratch away all the undergrowth, which is very favourable for the vines, as more sun and warmth then gets to them but they also eat ripe grapes near the ground.

Kakis:

Their cultivation is similar to that of plums. However, they should be treated more carefully and in particular, hardly pruned when they are young. They want to get to the ground water, which is why meadows near streams and places near the banks of streams are favourable. The ebony tree should not be allowed to grow too tall in spite of its astounding fruit-bearing strength when fully laden with its heavy, juicy fruit. Kakis are the last fruit to ripen in the year, together with quinces, before citrus fruits and olives. They can be picked while still hard and green before too severe frosts and stored in a single layer in boxes. They will then ripen up to February. The ripe fruits are soft and jelly-like. If they are not fully ripe, kakis have an astringent effect, are hardly edible and can provoke nausea or vomiting.

Cacti:

From this group of drought-resistant plants for hot regions we choose the opuntia or fig cacti with their blue or yellow fruits. They can be planted everywhere the burning sun threatens to dry out the soil by merely placing a leaf on the ground and weighing it down with a stone or by burying between a third and half of the leaf in the ground. And in such a way that the midday sun does not shine on the broad side of the leaf.

Note: Propagation from seed is also possible., but more difficult. The small plants should always grow densely and only be thinned out when they threaten to press each other out of the seed box.

That means virtually against the sun. Even though these cacti can stand a lot of heat, their leaves are not completely immune to sunburn if they are standing at an unfavourable angle. For planting you should take the older leaves or parts which have already become woody. We grow opuntia from one trunk and in the same way as with trees constantly cut off leaves for the animals and young ones for our midday meal. The plants prefer to bear fruit on every new fully grown leaf from the previous year. However, you can still regularly remove some of the new leaves. Mostly so many fruits are left that the cacti still sometimes collapse under their weight.

The opuntia with blue fruit can stand frost of up to -10ºC for a short time if there is a thaw during the day. The yellow ones are somewhat less frost-resistant.

Locations: On all south sides of walls. In stony or rocky areas. Under trees with thin foliage, oaks are good. Advantageous on the other side of the wall from stalls/stables and in places when chickens scratch and excrete. You should ensure that there is always a thick layer of mulch and plant the wood of cactus leaves with two metres between the rows and 2.5m between the leaves or even 3m with the large blue ones. You can also plant the yellow ones with 2m between the rows and the individual leaves but then the wood may become too dense later so that it is difficult to transport the leaves to feed the animals. You can easily cut 50 kilos of leaves daily from even a small cactus plantation.

Use: Many uses for people and animals, as not only the leaves and fruit taste good but the many seeds can also be used like cereals for chickens and humans. No other plant that I know possesses such strength and versatility and above all produces such a yield. In addition, the leaves are available throughout the year without needing to be stored in a barn. Some of the fruit can even be left on the plant for a long time. Opuntia can grow in a lot of places for which no use could previously be found. The gel has a medicinal use if you cut the leaves and rub it on your skin.All cactus leaves contain a large quantity of gel and so can also be used as a substitute for oil. – That is why salads from sliced cactus leaves should never have an oil dressing but only vinegar, salt and ground (pea-)nuts – You can drink the squeezed fruit juice as it is or ferment it. A thick layer of fruit foam on the freshly squeezed juice tastes like fruit pudding. If you use selected cactus figs of inferior quality as well, the fermented juice will not become wine but “only” vinegar.

Here we can recognise once again what is important on our life islands, and that is to exploit all conceivable possibilities of every single plant.As soon as we manage, for example, to find a practical method for separating and drying the pips from the marc (remains of grapes after pressing) we will be able to produce simply and surely obtainable cactus cereal, which will at least make us less dependent on the cultivation of other cereals.

Other sorts: We also have a candelabra type of cactus with long spikes that we call “toothpick cactus” because its spikes can be made into the best toothpicks. This sort also provides needles for all purposes, even for sewing. Its small green shoots are very popular with children. But woe betide a child that falls into the needles! Then you want to ban them to a place where they are actually only needed to create an inpenetrable fence. Neither people nor animals can get over a wall of candelabra cacti several metres in width.

Cherries:

Cannot tolerate standing water. That is why it is better to plant them on slopes or balks. It takes some years before purchased cultivated cherry trees can stand dryness. You will certainly want to plant some black and red cherry trees in the garden areas alone because of their taste and the sure crop – you have to be tolerant towards the birds. They can also stand in the grazing area but are not sufficiently resistant to nibbling from animals until they have developed big trunks. But with cherry trees it is always worth regularly painting their trunks with a protective coating because they will otherwise often be attacked by bark pests as well. The trunks of more or less all stone fruit trees need protecting and are vulnerable to wounds from rubbing.

It is better to grow cherries further out, for example in the grazing area, from wild cherry seedlings and then graft in cultivated sorts into the treetop when it has grown above the animals’ nibbling area. It is easy to propagate and make grafts with cherry seedlings.

Seedlings from wild cherries and even more from sour cherries are very resistant to drought and less demanding from the start and therefore should always be included among the pioneers (as well as oaks, pines and eating chesnuts, etc.) in areas where a belt of wood is only sown.

Use: Best eaten fresh from the tree. As they ripen early, cherries are important as one of the first fruits.

Sweet corn:

(See also “Cereals”) We sow sun corn in all hot times. Sorts with small kernels (for chickens!) which do not grow up tall can be very resistant to drought. Mixed culture on unwatered fields with water melons, pumpkins, sunflowers, millet …, also directly on the field for feeding domestic animals.

We grind soft or not very hard corn into a fine puree and eat it with oil and salt or in soups.

Almond:

Can withstand dryness and heat. Can even survive in the cactus area but then, of course, does not produce very many almonds. We plant single trees and let them grow up so that it is easy to prune them and pick their nuts and we also grow them in the grazing area. The animals only like the young leaves. If you do not prune almond trees, you must expect great fluctuations in crops (alternance) or a lack of crop. Build up a treetop on five or six main branches. In autumn cut out all the old wood that has no or only a few fruit buds. It is best not to cut off too long shoots but bend them down in an arch from the tip. For these long shoots can become the best fruit-bearing branches in the following year. We should leave all the fruit produced on the tree. Its trunk will usually be able to bear it. Here it is not like with peach trees where often only a selection of the best fruit can be allowed to ripen so as not to put too great a strain on the branches and trunk.

Use: Very fine and valuable nut with a good taste for all purposes. The hard shell can be cracked with a stone and mostly protects the almonds so well that the mice cannot eat them.

Mulberries:

Are propagated and grown like figs. There are various kinds, some of which produce a large crop, which should all be planted. They can stand in any area, also as single trees. Plant mulberry trees for breeding silkworms in groups. As with figs, fabric can be made from the bark of certain species.

With some kinds, the fruits are the first to ripen in the year while others bear fruit throughout the summer. The fresh fruit is very popular with humans and animals, especially with birds, and it can also be dried or made into wine.

Melons and pumpkins:

As I am not writing a gardening encyclopedia but above all wish to write what is not or rarely to be found in other works, I can only briefly describe some of the plants which are our partners. – We grow water melons in the hottest and sunniest spots on the naked, hot soil like in the desert. If moisture or dew comes from below at night and the trenches or humps for fertilising and watering are well supplied with nutrients, water melons will even grown without being watered. Of course, it is better to water them in trenches along the melon humps which should be been dug in such a way that they catch water if it should rain. You can also dig round hollows for fertilising and planting along the sides of the watering trenches which just need to be filled when you water. This is a good way to prevent nutrients possibly being washed away by frequent flows of water.

We use almost the same fertilising hump technique for pumpkins. The tasty local kinds with orange flesh can stand and also need a certain amount of sun if they are to ripen properly. Only fully ripened pumpkins can be stored until spring. Otherwise you can also well use all half-ripe pumpkins fresh or in pickled preserves.

When growing melons and pumpkins, you must remember that they require a huge area and check where they could be grown at the side or as a later crop. In this case I recommend potatoes and/or sweet corn, because both of them might already be ripe when the pumpkins start spreading into the beds from the side. Species of pumpkins which are somewhat accustomed to drought and/or water melons can be sown directly together with these in not too barren unwatered maize fields with some residual moisture over the summer. In this case you will only get small or very small fruits, which, however, ripen very well and have a very good taste.

Please be extremely careful if you grow more than one kind. All types of pumpkins mix immediately even if there is a relatively big distance between them. The large, striking flowers of courgettes and pumpkins attract bees and bumblebees over long distances and obstacles so that they can be fertilised, especially in summer which is otherwise lacking in flowers.

Use: We use the spaghetti grater to grate the the valuable pumpkins into strips as long possibleso as to produce all kinds of different dishes similar to the well-known spaghetti, only raw and in a natural state. There are, however, kinds which taste disgusting and can even provoke vomiting and these should be kept away from your garden unless you want to feed the pigs with them.

Also consider the seeds of all types of pumpkins and melons as potential sources of fat or oil for humans and melon seeds can also be used as a popular addition to chicken feed in autumn and winter.

Olives:

Bushy tree with fruits containing oil for many purposes. Indispensable especially during the southern winter. The enormous value of olive trees is greatly under-estimated today because people almost “only” know its use as oil and preserved olives. Further possible uses are presented for the first time in P.I. System/Diet and Life Part 1 or in “Natural Farming”.

Olives can be propagated with shoots and seeds. You can also improve unsatisfactory wild trees with too small fruits by grafting. Although it is actually a berry bush, olives can be grown as trees to stand on animals’ grazing fields. Only in the field area is there, as a rule, room for the sun-hungry olive trees which are not harmed by drought and slight frost. – On the contrary, only after the first frosts does the oil content increase to the considerable amount of 10% oil extract.

Olive orchards as habitats for (domestic) animals: Grazing or dunging by animals is important for olive orchards. The ideal method for dunging these trees is to use mobile pens so that while sheep are grazing in the olive groves they can be fenced in around different trees over night so that the trees are fertilised in the optimal way. I have got the impression that olives orchards without grazing animals actually start to ail and often die. Of course, olive trees also pay back well for the dung given by the animals and for being freed from weeds. They always provide a good reserve of foliage for animal feed, especially for goats, both in times of drought and in winter. Falling olives provide food especially for chickens, which scratch away weeds under the trees. The olives remaining on the trees provide food for many kinds of birds in winter. However, these birds then fall prey to the large number of huntsmen on Thursdays and Sundays.

Care of olive trees: Olive trees are to be treated like berry bushes, i.e. cut out all the old shoots constantly. The Portuguese cut back the trees radically every fourth year so that only a few outer branches remain and then let them grow and bear fruit for three years. In this way there are three years with a full crop and one year without a crop. We have never liked this radical pruning and a lot of trees which are often already weak die because of pruning mistakes which beginners always make.

But we , too, make sure that the trees do not grow too much and lose their strength. But where the olive trees are well dunged, that means in the near and garden areas, in chickens’ scratching places etc. we let them grow into large, stately, shade-giving trees whose constant crops of fruit yield many times more than the smaller plantation trees. But we still completely understand the plantation owners’ practice. They want to have small trees which make picking more practical. (The professionals pick with large nets and nowadays with machines that shake the trees or beat down the olives.) That is why they cut out any shoots that want to grow upwards and make the top grow outwards, widthwise. They always leave the old main branches and only cut off new upward shoots and dry or old sideshoots so that finally there often remains only some healthy young foliage outside at the end of the shoots, which must then in no case be pruned away because otherwise the whole branch will not have any more sap and will die.

One problem with radically pruning the whole olive orchard is that all the foliage and thus our best winter feed for the goats falls from the trees in one go. That should be avoided. – If we are properly organised, however, we can radically prune just as many trees as the grazing animals can continually eat the foliage of. Then when all the olive trees on one piece of land have been pruned and their foliage eaten, we will proceed to another place with the goats/sheep and perhaps let the horses and donkeys in. Donkeys have no problem in eating branches as thick as fingers and trample down the rest. They are,so to speak, the “shredders” in our system of using animals as gardeners.

Ergo: If you have sufficient time to look after the trees, you will prefer to constantly cut out shoots in the cooler season, thus slowly and continually rejuvenating the olive trees according to the number of shoots and their requirements os that you can always live under nice big olive trees.

Incidentally, the largest of our olive trees with the densest foliage serve as a place for our chickens to sleep. It is every time a mystery to me how they can come down from the trees dry after storms and heavy rain.

Unfortunately olive groves are being cut down everywhere today although they should be protected like no other plantation. For it takes a long time for the young trees to become so strong that they have grown above the nibbling area of the grazing animals.

Concerning processing and use see Diet and Life, volume 1 and the appendix about diet. – Olives preserved, dried, olive cocoa, olive oil, olive cosmetics….. old oil for oil lamps.

Ban on life!: In the wake of the internationalist coercive rule of conglomerates which is also spreading over Portugal (via EC), all traditional oil mills which had previously worked in a largely natural way were forcibly “renovated” or closed when they did not want or were not able to comply to the new norms. What is now produced industrially there fits perfectly into the large range of other products harmful to health in the supermarkets. I would like to express the sharpest criticism of this new example in a long series of crimes by the Internazis to destroy the population in which, after forbidding production of real milk and other products, they have generally prescribed the killing and sterilising of our food and recently have also taken away our good oil. We see here how the financial powers which enslave and destroy our nations in collaboration with those people who are neurotic about hygiene and bacteria are waging a outright war against the health and life of the population. Nobody today is yet able to estimate how great these crimes are and how devastating their impact because everybody is still under the numbing and destructive influence of Internazi rule (whose product is the unnatural world of compulsive consumption) and even support or keep/enforce the obviously unjust laws, Only because of this can these criminals still commit the most serious of crimes against the nation’s health with impunity. Here are some of these unjust laws to remind you:

Ban on producing oil in a traditional way or privately

Virtual ban on free planting of vineyards and natural production of wine

Ban or virtual ban on production of natural dairy products

Compulsory vaccination (= poisoning and making idiots out of people and animals.)

Medical “monitoring” or compulsory treatment of all domestic animals including bees as well as humans.

Ergo: This is a ban on life!!! – “Natural life”? “Free-market economy”, “Human freedom and basic rights”…. where are you? – Further bans such as, for example, breast-feeding by mothers or entering woods and natural areas are being prepared.

Question: Are we going to let ourselves be put in our coffins by the Internazis & Co., made into slaves and idiots our whole lives long, be tortured slowly and endlessly to death without uttering a sound in protest? The hygienists, now in collaboration with the micro-/technowaves are condemning us to lingering illnesses in misery, killing our children or murdering their souls in a ghastly non-environment hostile to life.

Here I cannot advise you to do this or that to put a stop to these crimes. But through my books I may be able to arouse a certain awareness of this kind of world terrorism by manipulating food.

We might be able to make the advocates of all harmful products and methods (more) harmless by simply serving them with their own products. We could, for example, “treat” them with long-life milk or exclusively with sterile food, radiation from mobile phones, frequent vaccinations, operations, medicine …, deprive them of any responsibility and positions and intern the most stubborn”cases of greatest danger to the public” where they have hitherto forcibly treated or adapted sensitive people, namely in psychiatric institutions.

Peach:

Sensitive to standing water, cold in spring, moisture and wind. In adverse locations it can be grafted on to more adjusted bases and thus improved. Just see what kind of stone fruit does best on your land and then use this as the base for the more sensitive peaches and apricots.

We can also sow peaches in dense rows to obtain animal feed, in which case we pay less attention to the fruit formation and simply cut what we need.

A lot of peach kernels which have been sown give really good fruit trees. Many small wild peach trees which may result from crossing peaches with other types of stone fruit (almonds) can also often be useful because firstly, they are often ripe at a time (in the hot summer) when other peaches do not bear fruit and secondly, are good for drying.

The typical kinds of cultivated peaches are mostly only suitable for eating their fruit fresh or as puree. We like eating a mousse or sorbet from peaches and fresh cheese. Nectarines are a tasty variant of cultivated peaches.

If we want to deliberately trim the cultivated peach to produce a larger crop of fruit, we have to remove most of the thin shoots and above all leave the strong new shoots, on which good fruit can then ripen in the following year. In autumn you can already see the fruit buds, which consist of three parts, on these strong new shoots. When the tree is fully grown, you can even prune these fruit-bearing shoots down to two leaves above the last peach in early summer, if necessary.

If peach trees are not pruned and not given much fertiliser, they gradually lose their foliage from the centre. Then we only see trees without many leaves and a lot of thin or already dead branches and only weak new shoots on the outside on the almost leafless branches. Then there are hardly any quality fruit buds with three parts.

With peaches it is also important to leave just as many branches with shoots as the tree needs to be provided with sufficient sap at least until the fruit ripens.

Peach seedlings can also be used as supports for grapevines to climb on, which is especially good for white grapes. The shoots very quickly grow into medium-sized trees and the gradual loss of leaves in the unpruned treetops leaves the grapevines enough sun to ripen fully. Depending on the type of grape and the weight of the vines, most of the branches may drop right down or many of them may break off so that it will then be easy to pick the grapes. After picking them you should prune them or let goats and/or sheep “ravage” the plants, after which both the vines and the peaches will have been sufficiently pruned.

We do not have such a large choice of trees for climbing plants in the best, that means hot and dry places for grapevines. Besides the oak, the wild peach is one of the few that can survive there.

In the near garden area I also recommend peach seedlings for climbing vegetables, especially beans. As peach trees can/have to be radically pruned anyway, it does not matter if runners of runner beans or scarlet runners beans are cut off as well. In this case it is also favourable that peach trees can stand relatively close together in a row. However, they are not very suitable for purposes of intertwining to make arcades or tree houses, as their old wood can die very quickly, they have to be replaced frequently and do not grow to be either very old or very large. But you can use peach trees as a kind of preliminary culture for subsequent tree house rows. They grow very quickly and are already aging when other trees (such as figs, olives, oaks…) in your fruit hedges are only just gradually growing out of their childhood phase.

Plums:

Very many types exist. The trees survive periods of standing water and also early frost better than peaches and apricots, but hardly bear any fruit in this case. When planting, remember the sometimes enormous size of plum trees. It is best to plant them singly. You can also plant them in hedges in the grazing area as a protection against nibbling animals. It is more difficult to pick the fruit of tall plum trees growing up out of hedges but they are often spared the otherwise frequent attacks by pests. In regions with severe storms make sure that the trees are not too tall but rather grow in width. Thus you can grow plum trees like roofs to provide shade. For this you merely have to prune the upward growth occasionally. Let young trees develop five or six main branches. Where there is a risk of wind, the trunks should be short. Always carefully rid the inner parts of the trees of dry and too thin branches and leave fruiting wood for many years. It will usually bear fruit for some years until it dies of its own accord. Prune or let the animals bite off fruit-bearing branches which hang down too low as they will come down even further under the weight of the fruit. Let the tree rejuvenate slowly but constantly.

Plums often propagate themselves with runners and seeds and are easily transplanted and grafted. They can be intertwined but are more suitable for hedges than for arcades. Wild species of plums, among them sloes, have a lot of prickles and can form dense and stable hedges in the outer areas, which can be made into better fences for keeping in animals if they are intertwined in all directions and “stuck” in the ground when they are still young. This is done by sharpening the ends of young shoots, bending them downwards and sticking them in the ground again so that another runner is created.

Sorts/Use: A lot of purple, yellow, green, red, small and large early and late … sometimes very sweet. Lower and smaller types are small purple plums which also exist in a number of delicious variants. One sort (Wengenheimer) reminds me of the taste of mangos. We also call plums minimangos. They are a complete substitute for this tropical fruit. Many sorts are good for drying, others make excellent plum puree, which we prefer to all other fresh fruit purees as a sweet addition to our midday meal.

Fungi:

(See also the chapter on “Oaks”) A considerable and very tasty part of our range of natural food can/should consist of fungi. If the ground in our orchards is not dug over much but frequently mulched, there will soon be an abundance of different fungi. Besides, we can obtain the same plentitude of fungi on all land where hoofed animals graze but during the mushroom season (warm, humid climate in spring and autumn) no large animals should be allowed to graze on the land or at any rate only goats and sheep.

The special culinary or medicinal value of most fungi in their raw state, in salads, dried …. but above all in fermented vegetables is little known and has scarcely been investigated. (In the 20th century people had soooo many more important things to investigate.) People who only eat mushrooms boiled or fried will scarcely ever be able to discover or get to know their specific character and usefulness but will have to be extremely cautious with them, since when the mushrooms are prepared in this way they can stuff large quantities into themselves without even realising how they actually taste. A lot of fungi are “extremists”, that means they possess enormous quantities of certain unusual substances and therefore develop a strange taste. Depending on the requirements of your organism, you may therefore want to eat three of a certain mushroom on one day and then you are also able to, but on the next day feel nausea after eating only half one. Since this instinctive block is regularly ignored when food is cooked and excessive quantities are almost always consumed, a large number of fungi are considered to be poisonous although it is absolutely possible to eat them in limited quantities. There are only a very few poisonous fungi of which you should not even try a small piece raw. And even these, for example the death cap toadstools are still used in medicine (for example for fighting cancer). – So I hope you will be encouraged to try certain types of fungi which are easy to recognise without running the risk of being made liable for any cases of poisoning, which in my opinion do not always occur because of confusion but also for the reason explained below. The so-called specialists are in fact today still not in agreement about the toxicity of fungi because a lot of the species which cross with each other and stand on different kinds of soil are simply by no means constant and identical in their contents. In specialist literature a lot of fungi are simply suspected of being poisonous under the motto “we do not know exactly”. There still a lack of information today about the usefulness of most kinds. Research has concentrated mainly on recognising and distinguishing countless species. And even this is by no means always useful and informative because to my knowledge most sub-species have simply arisen from mixing/crossing of similar kinds. Even kinds which appear to be distantly related can in my opinion mix when they have similar requirements regarding location and climate (soil temperature and moisture). The mixing of the giant lepiota and types of leucoagaricus, for example, results in smaller types of lepiota such as field lepiota. If these field lepiota, in turn, pair with even smaller sorts, let us say psilocyben, this may result in even smaller sorts of lepiota, whose contents may no longer be so harmless. It all depends which parent dominates regarding content! The differences

Note: Here I must note that up to now I have had absolutely no support for my theory and am not sure either if I can and may dare here to put forward theories for specialists. The observations described here have, however, become clearer and clearer to my eyes every year. I have continually been able to recognise a relationship between many fungi to be found in one place concerning both their appearance and their taste.

between specimens of russula appearing after each other in the same place can easily be explained by this way of seeing things: first of all only russula with a good taste may appear in one place. Then some weeks later these russula will suddenly have a sharp taste and/or their tops may be a slightly different colour. If you look round a bit, you will find what has caused the changes, perhaps even in several gradations further away. One or several types of amanita may have appeared which has caused the change in the colour of the russula’s caps and has even given some of them a collar or produced isolated flakes or residual casing on their caps. So we can, of course, no longer call these hybrids “russula”, as they may have a amanita pantherina or amanita muscaria in their family, but have, in turn, to look for many other of the countless kinds of fungi in the thick books on fungi, often without finding a species which exactly matches the one in question, and besides their value and contents are mostly unknown. – But actually they cannot really be known at all or even classified according to norms for the very reason that it is not possible to find out exactly what fungi carried out the fertilisation and what degree of purity or proximity existed in relation to the typical, standard species of fungus.

I therefore also see proof for my mixing theory in this seemingly infinite variety of species and sub-species.

If you take my simple hypothesis of the mixing of the species into account, you will at any rate be able to undertand why the content, value and also the toxicity of fungi can be so different and controversial. New sub-species are simply being created all the time and these adapt themselves to their locations and in addition may also differ on account of the content or purity of the soil! Therefore we actually have no guarantee that certain sorts always have a good taste and are suitable for human consumption while others always have to be deadly poisonous.

Let’s take a closer look at this “poison”:

With a lot of fungi their poison is only connected with digestive problems which their consumption may but does not have to cause. Why? – Of course, people have more or less good digestion. Even one and the same person has good and bad times of day or digestive phases in general. A person whose body requires the substances to be found in fungi will also be able to digest them well and will like smelling and eating them.

– But the preparation and combination of fungi with other vegetables is crucial. If sufficient aids to digestion such lemon juice, vinegar, onions, salt …. are used or they are coated in raw egg yolk, salt, flour and spices, everybody can better digest all fungi, including edible mushrooms, that means eat more of them. Any meal can contain a certain proportion of fungi. And even if there are some slightly poisonous ones among them, the very small quantity and their being combined with raw food dishes very rich in vitamins is often enough to neutralise the toxic effects. A plentiful amount of good red wine with a well-oiled fungus dish is also beneficial.

Now you will think that eating fungi is in general a very dodgy and uncertain matter, which it is better to leave alone. However, it is not the aim of my explanations to wish to create such an impression! – We do not wish and are not able to do without mushrooms. If we look at the world situation without any illusions, we come to the conclusion that times of extreme need are looming, during which we will no longer be able to exclude any native source of food growing wild!

Besides there are actually sorts which everyone can recognise in any place without absolute certainty alone on account of their outward characteristics and know they have certain characteristics regarding content and are either poisonous or not. But you should still always remember that any species is hardly ever purely a closed species for itself but always appears in numerous variations and sub-species.

To give an example, we want to have a look at boletus, which experts have split into various sub-species. Wouldn’t it be easier to regard these boletus variations as the results of other kinds of boletus having crossed? (Hier habe ich ein paar Sätze weggelassen, weil ich im Englischen Steinpilz und Röhrling scheinbar beide boletus heißen). Well, here I do not wish to interfere with the work of “mushroom connoisseurs”, who prefer to give names to the thousand kinds (there are far more than this). But you can also make a thing more complicated in order to make it inaccessible to the “ignorant.” (This is a popular game with all researchers and scientists.) At any rate you will not have any big problems if you eat cautiously using our way of getting to know all boletus. There are no deadly poisonous ones among them. Merely avoid any boletus with white caps and red stems (boletus satanas) and one which resembles a boletus from above (tylopilus felleus), whose stems are, however, rathermore whitish pink than luscious yellow or green as with boletus edulis. If you are in doubt, you can recognise the tylopilus felleus immediately by its very bitter taste.

True, it is easiest and safest for beginners to recognise the large group of “boletus” but you should soon be able to recognise at least the species “russula”, “puff ball”and “lepiota” without fail and oyster mushrooms growing on tree trunks. You will be able to distinguish the types of chanterelles from the false chanterelles without fail and also from the poisonous omphalotus olearius and other brown omphalotus because of their characteristic peppery egg taste, once you have tasted the former just once raw. Neither does anyone forget phallus impudicus having one seen and tried it (thinly sliced).

As a beginner you should avoid the species of leucoagaricus (field mushrooms and related species), preferably all fungi with white caps. A lot of poisonous fungi or so-called inedible toadstools already smell and taste unpleasant. But allegedly not all. (I was never keen to try fungi I knew to be poisonous in advance, which is why I cannot say much from my own experience in this respect.)

One way to reduce toxins from fungi which cause indigestion or nausea or to diminish the risk of being poisoned in general and mitigate the extreme taste of some sorts is to ferment them in vegetable preserves. This method of preserving the different kinds on their own with plenty of salt in jars helps their particular taste and special features to really come out.

I would like to point out that fermenting fungi of all kinds with salt is the most important and best way of preparing them so as to make them most digestible and agreeable and warmly recommend all friends to pickle them in vegetable mixes (for example with onions, cereals, Jerusalem artichokes, rosemary, bay leaves, cabbage … salt and possibly fruit wine in jars with screw tops).

I suspect that in reality a relationship exists between many sorts of mushrooms which are considered to be different, so to say that the countless intermediate types simply come into being through being crossed with other species.

Photos 1 and 2 show a possible chain of relationships between amanita rubescens and russula. The relationships are not so easy to recognise in the photos as in the actual places, where gradations and degrees are visible alone on account of the location. Note, however, the sparse residual flakes on the cap of the second mushroom as a hereditary characteristic of the first species of amanita on the far left. The third relative is already classified as a russula by fungi experts although only the last fungus has the characteristic colouring which typifies russula. You should find out whether a red or blue, gree or yellow russula is edible or not by tasting it directly at the place where you find it.

Photo 3 shows some yellow boletus variations, which differ markedly in the colour and shape of their caps and stems, therefore also suggesting that their parents/fertilisers were other different species of boletus.

Photo 4 shows the large lepiota by the fence of the vegetable garden of one of my sons. He did not dig or hoe the place under a quince bush but mulched it regularly. The large lepiota has become the most abundant fungus in our vegetable garden everywhere oaks are standing not too far away (up to approx. 25m). – Here also notice the lepiota’s extremely meagre scales. Some types of field mushrooms (possibly leuco-agaricus) may have smuggled in their “genes” here!

Quince:

A very versatile tree or shrub for all purposes and locations. The only thing it does not like is too chalky soil. It can easily be propagated with cuttings to quickly make long hedges from quinces alone or in combination with other hedge plants. Because of its stability the quince is highly suitable for corridors from rows of fruit trees and as a not too high hedge for plants to climb on in the vegetable area. Here the quince forms a support for climbing plants up to about 2m high. Quince bushes which grow taller are also good supports for grapevines or morangeiros (in the grazing areas) but occasionally break under the weight of the plants. In our house garden we often grow peas, cucumbers and tomatoes in low quince hedges. Also in this area , where we prefer not to have prickly climbing plants, single vines are protected from frost and animals nibbling and ensure that the hedge is better intertwined and dense at the sides. The quince hedges and even the individual bushes can stand being pruned in any way or eaten by animals almost any number of times.

If quinces are to be used to make fences and pens for animals, you should make them more impenetrable with climbing thorny bushes (roses, blackberries) and more sturdy by planting single trees (wild plums or pears) in the hedges.

Quince bushes or trees provide their valuable fruit into the winter. If you want to have as much and large fruit as possibly, you can also plant cultivated trees or graft such or also pears or medlars into your quince hedges later.

Use: Quinces are the last available stone fruit in the year. We grate them in all types of muesli or in fresh cheese, or soured milk or kefir. Quince juice both tastes and does good. Also quince wine and vinegar. We have sometimes used quince wine as a base for producing honey mead.

Roses:

Even if roses and dog roses at any rate produce some rosehips as fruit, roses have a not insignificant place in the biotope as a whole. You will have realised by this point already and will do so more and more in the course of my descriptions that our Paradise Garden Systems are mainly based on building up various types of hedges. A person who installs a system (of mine) will be occupied for years with building up fruit hedges for all purposes and in all conceivable combinations of plants. This “hedge research” is far from being completed with us. True, we know most of the functions and possibilities of the single hedge components and also of a lot of mixed hedges but are far from having been able to try out and study all variants. At any rate, the rose will always have an important contribution to make concerning the subject of hedges. Hedges which are supposed to be impenetrable can be built up with roses, which are easy to propagate from cuttings. The long trailing branches can be trained on both sides like barbed wire at different heights. Roses can withstand drought just as well as blackberries and are just as good as the latter in their resistance to animals nibbling and inpenetrability for domestic animals. The big thorns of a trimmed rose hedge even keep cows from eating it. Goats only pull off very modest quantities of leaves and the trunks in the middle remain intact, although rose foliage tastes better to goats than most other plants.

As a hedge consisting solely of roses may be somewhat lacking in sturdiness, we can use the quince as well to give support. In addition we can plant more stable fruit trees or cuttings from plums, pears, cherries, apricots …., which will later grow up above the hedge so that their trunks will be protected by the hedge.

Some problems with constructing tree houses

We can, however, also plant our rose cuttings virtually as “markers” for planting our tree houses. (Raspberries are also good for this purpose.)

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Tree houses are initially nothing more than densely planted hedges mostly with only one type of tree whose branches are capable of growing together. Their growth and shape is, however, not regulated so much by pruning but rather by twisting and intertwining all the shoots.

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At first you might think that sowing or planting trees or cuttings in dense rows of trees (10-50 cm apart or further depending on the type of tree and the desired penetrability), for example oaks, mimosas, hazelnuts or poplars with the purpose of later constructing a tree house is no great art and will not cause any difficulties. And everyone who hears about this possibility is surprised that no such intertwined life houses ar to be seen anywhere today. – But anyone who is planning such a construction and wants to implement it will soon not be surprised any longer. A lot of mistakes can already be made when sowing a row of trees, then mice, chickens, occasionally goats, sheep or other “trampling horses and oxen” come into the field. Sowing, planting, setting cuttings, fertilising and later taking regular security measures and caring for the tree rows should and indeed can almost only be done by the team living naturally on the farm. Now just try putting together such a team for this purpose today! “Adults” cannot be bothered with such thngs, have something “more important” to do, are no longer capable of cooperating, do not want to live naturally, have “no time”, want to travel, “have to” earn money …. Even teams specially set up for this purpose would break up within a short time. Family teams, which I consider to be the only ones able to install and care for such structures, are being destroyed or at least disrupted and resolutely kept from living and acting in a natural way. – For example, by “schools”, towns, computers, TV but also by spoilt (grand)parents, uncles, aunts, girlfriends etc. who are oriented towards the world of consumption. Men have been deprived of the leadership and authority necessary for such a construction by the feminist, anti-Christian (would-be) world rulers and their unjust laws and their destructive media propaganda machinery. So who is still surprised that there are no more thousand-year-old oak houses standing after two burning and murderous world wars in which injustice was always victorious and the third which is just beginning?

Roses again:

Their scent is delicious, the sight of them enchanting and you can almost live from them if you sleep in a rose garden (expressed with some exaggeration). In a time when we are almost exclusively surrounded by ugliness and unpleasant odours, we learn to appreciate a rose garden. Rose petals in salad or freshly dried in cold water teas convey a little of the “rose atmosphere”. Rose hedges produce a good amount of dew or moisture and are, as already mentioned, popular with goats and sheep which can be used for pruning.

Anyone who can begin to imagine what such hedges or natural fences can do will appreciate roses, like blackberries and quinces, as extremely valuable material for building fences, which would otherwise have to be replaced by ugly barbed wire or other man-made fences. Our farm cannot really function without any problems unless it is cleverly divided up into secured plots of land. Man-made fences are only imperfect last resorts because, unlike hedges, they have no ecological value but are dead and dangerous building components which can injure animals and humans or even kill them.

Tomatoes:

Here you must be especially careful with the choice of species! The market is inundated with countless sorts. We have tried such wretched sorts even from organic suppliers that we are not willing to experiment any longer.

We grow mainly the following sorts:

a good flesh tomato for soups and eating fresh.

a high-yielding plum tomato for drying.

and a small kind of winter tomato which keeps until February with a very concentrated tomato taste for dishes ground in a mortar (nut purees, pastes), fermented preserves, raw pizza…

We also allow a large number of small yellow and red kinds which reproduce themselves wild to grow here and there every year. Also other related nightshade plants, especially physalis, also known as cape gooseberry. But here we must take care that our seeds do not become mixed.

You must take seed from your plants without fail. They will adjust to your location and develop better every year.

Tomatoes taste best when they have enough space and sun. Therefore it is also a good idea to plant them each year under the freshly planted young trees or new hedges from cuttings. If they are supported, for example in quince hedges for climbing plants, they are better and easier to pick and do not rot so quickly. But you should still plant them, especially the plum tomatoes, in fields to obtain large crops. Here the entire soil which has been loosened to a good depth is enriched with plenty of manure as for potatoes. Manure from chickens, goats or sheep is very good. We plant the small tomato plants in double rows (approx. 50 cm between rows and plants) in furrows made with a broad hoe and later the earth is heaped up so that there is a watering trench after each double row. If we make watering trenches between each row there is a greater danger of nutrients being washed away. For the trenches are completely filled with water every time and the soil is moistened deep down so that we do not have to water again for a long time and should not either for the reason mentioned above. Trench watering is therefore better for all plants with deep roots, especially for tomatoes and potatoes (and of course the young trees there) than hose watering that only wets the surface of the soil, where the moisture mostly evaporates again the same day and risks the plants drying up as well as soil erosion and mould because it is then necessary to water every day. Incidentally, it must be mentioned that you can expect mould immediately especially with cucumbers and pumpkins when you spray water if either the water is dirty or the leaves are dusty.

I can understand that some gardeners find it practical to water with a hose from the mains but with such a hose you can damage the plants and soil considerably over the summer, even if it is your own relatively good water – absolutely good, living water can never come out of a hose. The quality always suffers when the water flows through an unnatural pipe even if it is short. Still, there are plants which would rather be sprinkled with a fine rose – but never drenched with a hard jet of water. Lettuces are especially to be mentioned in this respect.

But back to the tomatoes: when our plum tomatoes in the double rows start to ripen we arrange all the plants carefully in the same direction so that there is a path for picking the fruit in the watering trenches. Such field tomatoes do not have their suckers removed and are not tied to sticks but simply grow like bushes in warm regions. It is not customary to remove suckers and tie tomatoes anywhere in Portugal and is only in general necessary in less sunny countries because otherwise the tomatoes are covered too much by leaves and grow mould or soon burst and rot in frequent rain.

Very many uses, e.g. tomatoes with oil, salt and egg yolk; tomatoes with cheese; in soups, fermented vegetable preserves… see also chapter on diet.

Jerusalem artichoke:

Today we can no longer imagine a winter without the daily mass use of Jerusalem artichokes for people and animals. Therefore we plant at least one Jerusalem artichoke wood each year as far away as possible from the old location . (So that the number of mice does not increase too much.). There should be a distance of one metre in all directions. The yield from even small areas is already considerable so that they provide food for a lot of people and animals.We leave them in the ground and regularly dig up just as many as we need. Jerusalem artichokes are an addition or substitute for potatoes in the winter six months. In the other seasons we eat them in a concentrated form dried as crisps or ground.

Jerusalem artichokes have a great importance in present and coming times when there is a shortage of (good) food. – I do not know if you are aware of how scarce and inadequate the food supply in Germany is for cases of emergency. Shops have dispensed with storage facilities almost completely for reasons of profitability. And only a few private households still store or bottle food. Self-sufficiency and smallholdings have more or less disappeared. –.And the supermarkets would be sold out in two days (!) in emergencies.

At any rate: a single Jerusalem artichoke plant yields nearly a full bucket with proper cultivation without mice and the vegetables even surpass potatoes in nutritiousness! Which is why we should consider if we shouldn’t decide for the Jerusalem artichokes rather than potatoes in principle, at least in times of crisis. For they are more digestible and better, are available in almost unlimited quantities from October to May, need no indoor storage and can therefore not be stolen so easily. Anyone who wants to steal them must first of all know the place where the plants grew until autumn when their dried stems can be removed. Even if a thief knows their location, it will not be so easy for him to dig them up and he will scarcely be able to cover more than his immediate needs.

You can grate the artichokes finely and prepare them like salads or process them in the round grater like root vegetables. They provide nutritious and tasty dishes mixed with oil, salt, a few wild herbs, a small quantity of pickled vegetables and maybe an egg yolk.

The Jerusalem artichoke also has great importance because of its excellent possibilities for use in fermented (mixed) preserves. Here the artichokes serve as a base and we add, for example, peas, lentils, fresh sweet corn (or cereals), mushrooms, onions, rosemary and sea salt.

My tip: Even if you have no land of your own, you can plant Jerusalem artichokes in all conceivable places where nobody takes any notice of you and and they will not be eaten by grazing or forest animals. Sell the artichokes as ornamental plants (possibly under another name, for example “gypsy flower”) to “civilised” women who dislike vegetable gardens and have the usual mania for ornamental plants.

Walnut:

The walnut tree occupies an outstanding position particularly on large farms. Since its leaves are scarcely edible for animals it is better protected against nibbling than almost all other trees. However, some goats allow themselves a leaf or so from time to time. Perhaps just to realise again that they still simply cannot eat this tree. So we only have to protect our walnut plantations or keep them free of animals until they start to get big. It is worth the trouble to plant these large trees directly in the animals enclosures as well. Large amounts of manure and liquid manure are not harmful but walnut trees even drive away flies because of their smell.

First of all, we also try to plant avenues of walnut trees along all paths and roads at the start. Such fruit-bearing avenues (with oaks and eating chestnuts as well) are most valuable providers of food for us and our animals and are not subordinated to motorists’ wishes or cut down like in “civilised” society because their falling nuts might startle drivers. But in principle nobody has to drive so fast and far on our roads any more that falling nuts could startle them. If I had the opportunity to establish a large farm, an entire district or even a country with natural planning, I would plant nut-bearing trees along all the roads. Here in Portugal, for example, as follows:

eating chestnuts on all north-facing slopes and somewhat shady, fertile places with deep soil

oaks in all sunny, barren and dry places

walnuts in all not too cool places, villages and populated areas

hazelnuts or large corylus colurna along all medium-sized and small, narrow roads.

The wider avenues (main roads) would be constructed in such a way that on both sides in the entire area of the tree tops only pedestrians, horse-riders, carts, handcarts and at the most bicycles would be allowed, that means all unmotorised vehicles and only one lane in the middle would be permitted for motor vehicles and other faster ones outside the area where nuts could fall from the trees.

Of course, such planning hardly appears viable in today’s situation alone on account of the enormous volume of traffic. But here we should consider, in principle, why all those people have to drive around the countryside like crazy all the time und then realise that this very compulsion to car-driving will gradually disappear with the P. I. System, i.e. with more and most widespread self-sufficiency, not least also just because of such nut tree avenues which are available to all residents.

Even without such sensible planting of life trees being implemented, there is incidentally the not slight possibility that the volume of motorised traffic on land, water and in the air will be drastically reduced within a few years.

Use: The most important type of nut, easy to crack, best provider of fat in winter, high oil content which can easily be pressed, very good taste. We can enhance and supplement almost all vegetables with walnuts. They are ideal for mueslis and dishes prepared by grinding in a mortar, pastes and vegan sausages. These fat providers are also important for chickens especially in winter, besides sunflower seeds.

We can drastically reduce our cereal requirements by using nuts. But you must be careful especially with drying them. When nuts are dried in the sun or lie on hot ground in the direct glare of the sun in a warm country for even just a short time, they burn up inside their shells or are heated above the permissible life temperature. We also call such nuts fear, argument, problem, worrry or nightmare nuts, which adequately describes and warns about their impact on our psyche.

Note: Of course other overheated types of nuts, acorns, chestnuts … also have a similar “blues effect.”

Grapevines:

There is not much to add to what I have already written about grapevines. – On our islands we do not plant only one kind of grape over a large area as in a vineyard but use vines for as many purposes as possible and plant kinds for every requirement and for crops lasting as long as possible. So we have white and black or pink, early and late grapes for eating and for making wine, long-lasting and perishable ones… for every purpose and inhabitant. – Also for bees, wasps, hornets and birds! In our paradise garten there is no longer any reason to begrudge the birds and insects their share of the crop, to put up scarecrows or even install automatic shooting machines or nets. Such thinking is cold-hearted and narrow-minded, at least if food is not scarce. On our farms there are grapes everywhere and fruit in abundance for everyone!

Besides, the different sorts are not all as vulnerable to attacks from birds and insects. Morevoer, in general an onslaught only shows that the grapes have attained a high degree of ripeness and sugar content and it is now time to pick them. However, thin-skinned grapes are eaten sooner than, for example, the thick-skinned black winter grapes, which cannot be so easily pecked even by birds.

The morangeiros (also called American grapes) are also sure to yield large quantities without problems for some years without pruning and are not even endangered by spells of rain and wetness, whereas some cultivated sorts require exact pruning and may burst immediately or become mouldy in unfavourable weather or are destroyed by vinegar flies. .

If you want to find the “right” kinds, I think you should first of all plant the kinds that are already growing there. Otherwise you can trying planting vines everywhere there is a dry and warm or hot clmiate during the period when the grapes ripen. As vines can have very deep roots, it is possible to consider growing them on land that is still uncultivated today and even in desert regions. Once they have reached the ground water, they will still grow where (almost) no other plant thrives.

Real wine, pressed naturally and without any artificial additives or heating, grown without any “spraying”…., especially from red grapes, is a unique feast, a gift from God and has not the

Note: We distinguish between healthy, natural fermented drinks (such as our wine or fermented juice) without any artificial additives and addictive, denatured alcohol drinks which are distilled or brewed (all beers) and all heat-treated wines and vinegars which are pasteurised before or after fermentation. Unfortunately Germany’s drinks markets stock almost exclusively the latter.

slightest to do with an intoxicating substance! No main meal is complete without it. It is not possible to digest wholefood meals containing fat completely without it, as this places a strain on the organism.

Propagation: Either directly with cuttings or by grafting on to wild grapevines and morangeiros. It is very easy to root wild vine cuttings in the first year, then plant them out in the same place in winter and let them get established in the second year. The grafting can then be carried out in the next winter or spring. If we want to plant morangeiros or other vines in the grazing or wood areas, we should take three or four cuttings from quinces and place the vine cutting in the midddle of the bundle of cuttings. The vine has a chance to grow up tall in spite of grazing animals when it is in the middle of a growing quince bush in which you can easily plant a blackberry or wild plum as well.

Of course, it never does any harm to plant some vine cuttings in any hedge you want to establish. It may take a large number of years before you will see them again. But suddenly the vine is to be clearly seen above the hedge, after which the hedge and even the trees planted in it only act as supports for the vines to climb.

Pruning vines: ‘This is generally done in January. We often prune the vine leaves when picking the grapes. As there are vines growing everywhere on our farms, we are actually constantly working to free trees from them and pick the vine leaves which are so popular with the goats and cows. – However, if you cut away too much foliage too early, you run the risk of buds developing in autumn instead of the spring as it should be. – The final pruning should not be done until January or February or after the first periods of cold weather or frost. We should remember that a long trailing shoot will grow out of every remaining bud in the following year and calculate or limit the growth of the vine according to the total number of remaining buds. The large number of buds on the thin shoots will hardly yield any grapes and should be removed as well as such buds that will grow too much into shady areas and old, already partly dried up branches. Finally there remain the strongest shoots pointing towards the sun on every main branch and these are then mostly also cut back to leave only two or three buds as otherwise too great a strain would be placed on the growing strength of the vine. To be sure, before pruning you can simply count the total number of branches and then leave about the same number of buds or slightly more.

If the entire vine is to be grown on a tree or extended to an espalier or pergola…, you should leave one or two such strong shoots regardless of the number of buds up to the desired distance or height (into the tree).

We can also work with animals after the harvest in low vineyards. Sheep and goats are the most suitable in this case as also for pruning berry bushes. Before the harvest or during growing seasons it is best to let chickens get rid of grass that grows up.

Use: Fresh, dried (as seedless sultanas), fresh juice, wine, sparkling wine, vinegar.

To make wine, remove the grapes from the stalks by hand. Remove too green, unripe or rotten grapes and feed them to the animals if appropriate. After that, press the grapes (hand press or treading in a vat) and put them in a container, where they will soon begin to ferment. Stir and stamp them every day so the grapes floating on the surface go down and all the grapes ferment to the same extent. Cover the container to keep off vinegar flies. The juice will have largely separated from the fruit pulp after one week or somewhat longer. The skins then separate more and more from the juice which can be skimmed off into a container made of stone, glass or wood for fermenting and this should be closed so that air can escape but not enter. We also press the grape remains again. A large number of pips can be obtained from the remains and pressed to make oil. The Portuguese often make schnaps from the grape remains as well.

After about two more months (before Christmas) the wine which has finished or almost finished fermenting and is ready for drinking can be bottled and corked for storage.

Citrus fruits:

The most important winter fruit, ripening from December to about April. If you eat the peel as well, you will be full and warm after eating just a few oranges, tangerines, mandarins …. If you don’t eat the peel, these acid “shiver” fruits will make you feel even colder in winter. Lemons are needed for their juice like vinegar to neutralise fatty food, that means vegetable dishes containing oil. Grated lemon rind is also very important and adds a good taste to mueslis and salads.

Sweet oranges can also be used to make orange wine, which we call orange beer since it is a bit foamy. I should mention here that all these uses, including the use of the peel, are not practicable or to be recommended with what the chain stores sell as citrus fruits in supermarkets. Compared with what the paradise gardeners pick ripe from the trees, the commercial fruits with their sprayed peel are absolutely “sick”. – The paying consumers should put up resistance to this as they should to any manipulation, poisoning or degradation of their food in general. (In my opinion, the best way to put up resistance is to set up a paradise garden yourself.)

Fresh squeezed orange juice is well known and we drink it preferably with a 50% mix of fresh or sour milk. This neutralises the excess acidity and chilling effect. Since we in general prefer dishes with a higher fat contain in winter, citrus fruits have great importance in balancing as well as providing acid and water.

Citrus trees are not so difficult to grow in sufficiently warm regions if they are adequately watered, stand in a place protected from the wind and the nights are not too cold. However, the location must be most carefully selected in a cool or cold, windy, extreme climate, which is too hot in summer. It is also good to plant orange plantations on terraced slopes or in protected valley passages. In the south the citrus trees are the very first thing you will find in even the smallest house or walled garden. In northern regions it is often only possible to grow them in pots or conservatories.

In the P. I. System gardens it is better to wait for planting citrus trees until enough protected house and walled gardens have grown or been constructed. At any rate, you can first try planting some citrus trees in a place where they are protected from frost by large evergreen trees (for example cork trees or mimosas). You do not need many citrus trees. Half a dozen fully grown citrus trees can cover the winter needs of a farm unit. (You will need more if you squeeze the fruit to make juice.) But the few trees must have a good stand and be well watered regularly.

At the end of this list of the most important plant partners which we need to live / survive in human dignity and freedom, i.e. without having to enslave others, steal and rob, that means without hunting or slaughtering or exploiting in the widest sense, I would like to briefly mention some plants which I have not explicitly named because I assume their cultivation and use are already known.

These are

all grasses, spice plants and herbs for us and our animals

all other not previously mentioned kinds of vegetables, especially potatoes, brassica oleracea, cabbage, cauliflower, swede, kohlrabi, fennel and celery, carrots, turnips – all kinds of lettuce

all other vegetable fruits such as paprika, peperoni, aubergine, cucumber

all kinds of beans, peas, lentils, chickpeas and peanuts…

all kinds of leeks and onions

all kinds of wild herbs and vegetables in the region. In Portugal navelwort, types of water cress, lychens, chickweed, stinging nettles….

many other kinds of tree such linden, poplar, eucalyptus, mimosa, pine….

all kinds of berries and wild shrubs not previously mentioned and other fruit trees….

We should remember that we and our domestic animals can only develop to our full satisfaction and in good health and survive in the long run with these or comparable plant friends. It is sufficiently known what happens when people (have to) settle without all the plant and animal friends mentioned in Diet and Life. Of course, people are not (any longer) aware that guzzling meat, the decline into general barbarity and even cannibalism is nothing but the inevitable consequence of the failure to establish genuine and, from a physiological and nutritional point of view, sustainable symbioses of plants, animals and humans.

If we want to settle in a new place or have to rebuild our land which has been biologically impoverished and exhausted because of the old system, we should, if possible, use all the components mentioned here or comparable ones for our personal paradise islands.

So anyone who prevents settlers from bringing in and reproducing domestic plants and useful plants, is thus preventing the creation of real (high) cultures. It is just as despicable behaviour to lure or force settlers or their children away from their land and their work there in whatever way. Whether this be by direct coercion, such as officials do, or indirectly through the money system, schools, media, the food industry…. (Here I mean the whole arsenal of temptations in a society of addicts who believe they are able to continually increase their presumptuousness and wrongness.)

Real reflection free of any illusions shows that there is no other more important or instructional task for people than establishing and maintaining their life gardens! And people who have realised this will agree with my way of looking at things and my demand that all currently still existing obstacles for potential self-sufficient farmers or settlers must be rigorously eliminated from the path which is anyway hard enough.

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From a more exact point of view, anything that forces even only one member of the family to leave their home in the paradise garden – even for just one hour – is in fact an obstacle!

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It is not in order, for example, that German settlers on the Azores have to travel to the German embassy in Lisbon for any formalities (identity cards ….) Anyhow you no longer feel really free anywhere in a world in which everyone has to have an identity or code number, a bank account …. which constantly exposethem everywhere to the parasitical grasp of some official or other. This already shows that we people of today are virtually nothing but numbers, which can be exploited, controlled and regulated at will by the endlessly increasing power of the authorities.

But it is not only the official authorities who reduce our freedom of life. It is often simply some bourgeois neighbours who denounce the natural settlers because they walk barefoot, their laundry is not snow white and does not have the “scent” of chemicals, because they sleep out of doors, keep domestic animals and do not think anything of tiled surfaces, new cars, fashion clothes, lawnmowers…. and all the jealous, mean, narrow-minded, money-led modernistic fuss and affectation which comes to terms with all kinds of lies and falsehood. Or also because they do not want to let their children be harmed by vaccinations, do not have televisions, video recorders, computers or mobile phones in their homes, etc.

The power of the consumer system has grown and is still growing immeasurably just because of such bourgeois people and is also intruding brutally and in a fatally destructive manner into our budding new Paradise Island cells with its norms which are mostly based on compulsive neuroses. In this connection I would like to just briefly mention the widespread bacteria and hygiene neuroses. Since all “public” bearers of offices and dignity not only tolerate the terror of washing, hygiene and gossiping women but in principle even zealously support and contribute to all kinds of consumer world imperialism, which is fatal for everyone in the end, our situation in many places is similar to that during the Third Reich. You never know when the “Gestapo” will be standing at your door, when yourself or your children will be forcibly therapied, forcibly fed, forcibly schooled…. forcibly adjusted by so-called social institutions and their “workers” or by doctors, psychiatrists and hospitals, which do actually “live” from the hygiene paranoia or all these bourgeois norms and, of course, also from fundamentally incorrect ideas about the causes of different illnesses and their therapies.

A lot of coercive measures in the consumer system do not in fact always mean physical death but in our case simply the extermination of our natural garden biotope, which we have built up over many years, whose value and nature can no longer be comprehended and appreciated by the “civvies” who have lost their souls, and can then never be rebuilt by reintegrated people who have been “therapied” or brainwashed by the coercive system.

Imprisonment, incarceration, forced labour …. similar to those in concentration camps formerly still happen again today and especially depersonalisation – or better said, personality murder – with such sophisticated and subtle means and methods that actually entire nations and soon even this whole planet will have to be seen as a single prison. Who today suspects what

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Quotation from R. Steiner, 1916, Lecture No. 167:

“When the year 2000 is over, it will not be long before a kind of indirect ban on all thinking will be imposed by America, a law with the intention of suppressing any individual thought.”

Here we should note that today in fact not only correct natural thinking but also action is perfectly suppressed. We must also ask why Steiner apparently knew the exact time schedule of the Internazis. I do not believe it to be prophecy but it is much more likely that Steiner was an initiated member of this “black hierarchy”.

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fatal consequences, for example, microwave radiation, vaccines, teeth fillings, nuclear contamination of the planet, the terrible quality and degradation of food, even air in indoor rooms and being locked in houses (especially schools, offices, factories, companies, cars….) and many other factors of general environmental pollution are having on their psyche and personality, on their mental development and life force…. ?!

– Anyone who can even escape a bit from this big nuthouse immediately sees that the effects of the above factors are devastating and fatal seen from an inner, spiritual point of view!

At any rate, it is high time for anyone who wants to live or survive to change their course significantly and sail towards a Paradise Island or self-sufficiency. Maybe we can in principle uncover and unmask the above-mentioned obstacles with their hidden, secret effects and/or also with the help of my books so as to make them (more) harmless.

Objective: We must succeed in being able to live on our land again unmolested for years and decades without having to leave even once!

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Written by paradiseislandfamily

August 9, 2008 um 9:09 am

2 Antworten

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  1. I just discovered this text while searching for ‚Paradise Gardening‘, which is a term which I also use to describe what I am doing. I have just quickly scanned it over, when I get an opportunity, I will print out so I can read more closely – or is this text available as a book which I could order from you? (It would be nice to have the pictures). You are presenting a huge amount of information, some of which will be useful to me in the southern Appalachian mountains of eastern America, and some will not. I think we are in agreement as to basic philosophy – you might enjoy the article ‚Paradise Gardening‘ on my website, I would welcome any comments you may have.

    Joe Hollis

    August 10, 2008 at 3:17 am

  2. Hello Rheinhold,
    I hope you and your family are doing well (no recent posts, at least in English). Your vision is right on and your descriptions of your life and garden are inspiring (makes me wish I lived in Portugal). But I fear your rigidity will put most people off. After all, we can’t all find a virgin piece of land, and associate only with people whose grandparents were virgins at marriage. Isn’t the whole point to develop a system which will enable anyone to develop a Paradise Garden on any piece of land? And why alienate, for example, anyone who eats meat? After all, humans have been doing this for all of our history, and some of us will evolve faster than others. You have done a fine job of defining your vision of perfection, but in so doing you have put it out of reach of just about everyone. Now you have to show them the road from where they are to the ideal you depict. Yes?
    Sincere best wishes,
    Joe Hollis
    P.S. I have put up a few blogs on ‚Paradise Gardening‘ on my website, which will suggest my approach. It’s hard to find others who think like this. I value your work. (and wish you were my neighbor)

    Joe Hollis

    August 31, 2009 at 3:35 am


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